P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire
I have a P0302 fault (cylinder 2 misfire). I replaced the spark plugs just a week ago, and when I checked them today they all still look new, except for the cylinder 2 plug. It is completely corroded on the top end (where it plugs into the spark plug wire). I know there are a large variety of problems that could cause a cylinder misfire, however the condition of the new spark plug leads me to believe it is an ignition problem. I replaced the ignition coil, checked all the spark plug wires for continuity between the coil and the plug, and replaced the corroded plug, yet I still get the P0302 code and the car still jerks and bucks on acceleration. Anybody have any ideas on what else I can try, or why the plug is corroding so badly?
I have the same problem with a 2003 kia rio po302 # 2 misfire but also have code po113 , I don,t know if they affect one another po113 is a IAT senor that i replaced but all the plugs looked great and wires are pretty new if you fined out anything please let me know and i will do the same bob email@example.com
I have the same problem with a 2011 kia rio. This has happened to me on 12/8/12 and 2/6/13. I keep getting the misfire codes...... Kia dealer saying its made gas.. The replaced two ignition coils on the two different cylinders on separate.. I dont trust this car. It is still under warranty.. I want to trade this car.....
I meant to say I have the same problem with a 2011 kia rio. This happened to me on 12/8/12 and 2/6/13. I keep getting the misfire codes.. The kia dealer saying its bad gas and only to use Shell gas. IT is still jerks when I put it in reverse and it stalls when I drive... The engine is off now but this is a bad sign off it is already messing up and it is still under warranty.. smh... I'm writing to the coporate office...
exact same thing happening to me KIA RIO 2011; when I'm at red lights it jerks and shakes for no reason I can figure out; also has the P0302 code; still under warranty and already has problems. Ridiculous!
i bet it is the fule fuilter
I have the same problem with my 2003 Rio. I changed all the wires, plugs, coil pack, and fuel filter! and still having the this problem!!
i have a 2009 reo, my no.1 misfires,i changed plug, put 1 can injection cleaner in ,2.5 gal fresh gas , still have problum, i m trying a new injector will let you know, sad i drove this car 14,000 miles now, im retired, and truble al ready.
I just had my engine rebuilt on my 2006 Kia Rio 12,200 miles ago, and randomly experienced misfires a little while back that seemed to go away after letting the car sit overnight. Now it happened again, just randomly as I accelerated from a red light, and am in the process of trying to figure this out. Really makes me mad!
I have a 2011 Kia Rio and the same exact thing. it was driving so perfect and one day it just suddenly started to jerk and almost konk out. The check engine light came on, and it appears to be running smooth again, the light is now off, but I am paranoid about what this could mean.
I have a rio5 2009 and am also having the same problems with cylinder #1. I've had it in two garages in our home town and just brought it to a Kia dealer ship the other day. They replaced the plugs and were going to replace the coil but I already had it done before I went in and I am still having the excat problems. The light came on later that day I had take. It out of Kia garage. I've spent so much money on this problem but yet I can't get it fixed. If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated. You can send them to firstname.lastname@example.org
My 2009 kia rio is misfiring on 3 of its 4 cylinders and Its only at 52000 miles. According to the information I have compiled while researching this problem I have found that voluntary repossession of the vehicle and declaration of bankruptcy are likely the best course of action. The engine is gone yet I still owe $12,000?!? I'm getting lawyers.
I inherited a 2002 Kia Rio that was throwing codes that (Autozone, NAPA, and O'Reilly all agreed) showed either had to be Emissions related or the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Everyone agreed the most likely culprit was supposedly the latter issue. It turns out, after taking the car to a local service station, that one of the plugs for the ignition coil packs was broken. Since there seemed to be no schematics of this car, except for the electrical system, I ordered what I thought was the correct part (Ignition Coil Condensor). After spending $33, it turned out to be the wrong part. Although you won't find this information anywhere, the part doesn't seem to have a name, but is referred to as the "Ignition Coil Connector" and is a 2-way female plug coming from the Main Wire Harness that plugs directly into the Ignition Coil Pack. If you try to find this at any of the above mentioned auto parts stores, they will all tell you it is a dealer only part. If you call the dealer, they will try to sell you "Condensor" that I mentioned previously. If you finally give up and just take it into the dealer, they will charge anywhere from $200-500 to fix this. If you get disgusted "like me" and decide to continue your investigations, making several trips back and forth from your local service station (who is actually the most helpful) then you will eventually discover that these plugs can be purchased online for about $10. Here are the signs and symptoms of what I was experiencing: engine misfires, check engine light (codes - "see above"), difficulty starting, idling very rough, running very rough up towards 60mph (won't go over 60mph), speedometer stops working momentarily, car will stall if I don't give it gas while idling. These symptoms vanished when they taped the broken plug back into place. This is currently where I'm at while I wait on the correct plug to be ordered. I'll confirm everything in another post once I've got this part replaced correctly. I think I will go ahead and have both of these plugs replaced, since there seems to be a problem with them falling apart.
Another thing I forgot to mention. This plug may not necessarily fall apart and look like mine did in the photo I posted. In fact, this part was already malfunctioning before they removed it, at which point the plastic housing surrounding these female receptor (prongs) literally crumbled in their fingers. They had to tape it back on, which is why this photo is kind of difficult to comprehend (the tape is hiding the wires coming off the back of this plug that are wired into the Main Wire Harness). This damaged connector will have to be removed so that the new one can be spliced in its place.
I have a 2009 Kia Reo, starting in March 2013, first coil went out under warranty. Then Oct 2013, the remaining 3 coils went out, I was not out of miles for warranty but was over 5 year, by 3 months, they want almost $ 600.00 to fix, I explained that this is a product issue, this Is a 100% product failure, if you have 4 coils and 4 fail, and you are under 60,000 mile you have a product issue. This car is used only to drive to work, 5 years old and under 60,000 miles there is a product failure.
Correction to previous note last three coils went out in October 2014.
Here is an update on my 2002 Kia Rio. It turns out that the Crank Position Sensor was also bad (wires had been slightly cut). This was discovered after the check engine light came back on after getting it back from the shop. The mechanic had told me that even after replacing the coil pack connector it still retained a slight knock in the engine. Well, as soon as I took it out on the road over 50 mph, it started misfiring quite heavily (wouldn't go over 55mph). That's when they discovered the wires had a very slight cut close to the crankshaft position sensor. After replacement it ran like a million bucks. Now, just a few days ago the check engine light came back on again. "What now?" It has been running great, even with the check engine light appearing, but today the speedometer stopped functioning for about 5 minutes, then came back on. Again, no problems with engine or transmission that I could tell. Only the the check engine light and speedometer. So, tomorrow I take it back in to try and get this last bug worked out. Probably just electrical, possibly the speed sensor, but the codes all point to other things (P0128, P0456). I'll post my findings when its all fixed.
I have a 2002 Kia Rio. About a two months ago my car would slightly skip and misfire. My engine light came on following that. It threw several codes that i was not aware of when i bought the car. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. The car would act right for about one week and then start to misfire again. Then the check engine light would come on. Plugs, wires (several times), fuel filter, coil pack (several times), crankshaft sensor, camshaft position sensor, ecu (computer), both 02 sensors, knock sensor, mass air flow sensor, new battery, and timing belt. Not including the water pump when it went out a while back. We have put all of our money into this vehicle and we have still not resolved the problem. Not one garage that we have taken this car to can resolve this issue. It misfires continuously now. It used to only misfire every once in a while and after we would change the part and clear the code, the car would run fine for about a week, but would eventually start misfiring again. I made a mistake in buying this car. It won't go over 50 mph and takes about 5 minutes to get to 50 mph. If anyone has any answers email me at email@example.com
Possible collapsed exhaust or plugged catalytic converter.
Huge lessons they don't want you to know about: Multiple misfires indicates the timing is off as you should really just get one misfire/one cylinder and rare two at the same time. Probably a worn out tensioner allowed the belt to slip a tooth on the cam. Otherwise the other huge huge lesson is that you need to change your spark plugs 72% from what they say is the maximum life of the plug because otherwise you mess up your $2000 catalytic converter. More planned obsolescence. Hillary says you overspent. In the old days they say the cat will never fail unless something else does. Hello, you overspent
My 2010 Rio has a coil go out every few months, I deliver pizza so I put massive miles on it. I notice that the bad coil has no springyness when I take the 10mm bolt off. New coils have a spring that contacts the spark plug and you have to push it down on the plug, then bolt it down. I`m suggesting that it`s the spring in the end of the coil boot, that looses it`s springyness from high heat. Then the contact is weak and the coil burns up from heat and electrical charge overload. For example the coil would misfire, then after sitting in cold weather for 30 minutes it would then work again, eventually I had to replace this coil. In Teas heat they dye quick.
Sorry that`s Texas heat, not Teas. If anyone has similar problems note them hear. Thank you.
For those of you with Rio's new enough to have individual coil packs (one for each cylinder) they are amazingly easy to replace all you need is a socket wrench and a 10 mm wrench. There is a video on youtube that shows you how. first, remove the engine cover (3 bolts) right under the cover are the coils. remove the wiring by pulling out the tab on the connecter and pulling the harness off the coil, then remove coil by removing the bolt and pulling the coil out. The resistivity can be checked to ascertain whether or not the coil is bad. for 2011 the primary is .75 ohms +/- 15% and the secondary is 5.9 kOhms +/- 15%
Hey 57, you ever do a compression check on your car? Might want to look into that.
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