check engine light on, replaced maf sensor as per obd2 light turned off with obd2, 10 miles later light back on

You might have a vacuum leak somewhere. When un-metered air is getting in to intake, the OBDII uses that along with MAF, Manifold Absolute pressure sensor to correlate how much air flow should be coming in @ certain rpm. You don't say what code, but I bet it is P0100, P0101, or P0102. That does indicate a Possibly bad MAF, but could be an electrical connector problem with the MAF not the unit it's self, but that or a vacuum leak. Look for and vacuum hoses that have come off, a 2012 is too soon to have them just worn out. There is an TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the 2012 Nissan Altima, Bulletin No. NTB12-051d which is that if replacing the MAF and light re-appears you may have to re-program the ECU. See http://engine-codes.com/p0101_nissan.html

Very helpful, that was the right answer. Thank you.

That was the correct answer. Thank you.

my check engine light has been on for almost 3 years and the code reads for the Mass air flow sensor. but my car still drives. should i replace the MAF. i purchased one the other day but havent put it in yet

I got a bad maf sensor code. replaced sensor! saw tech service bulletin , called to see how much to reprogram computer which is the factorys fault that they sell the car with a glitch. they said at the dealer as the private garages said only the dealer can re program the computer since the equipment costs $100,000. I asked the dealer how much?they said first they replace the MAF sensor which I just bought. then they reprogram the defect in my computer they sold me when I bought the car new! seems it would be around $200.00. so I bought a reader for $20.00 and every time the light comes on I shut it off. I got tired of doing that so I have black duct tape which I cut out a small piece and block out the light. and since Nissan is at fault I will remember this and buy a Toyota next car but first I will remove the tape and use my OBD 2 and turn out the light before selling! you know the old saying "let the buyer beware"

How do you pass the smog tests if you have your light on but covered with tape?

I solved the problem. After changing the mass air flow sensor 2 times I finally got a Nissan Mass Air Flow sensor since the Nissan Dealership told me it had to be the original sensor not aftermarket. However Check Engine Light came back. I also changed the connector for the mass air flow sensor. Still no luck. Turns out it was a dirty Throttle Body. As soon we got the throttle body cleaned. No more check engine light. So BEFORE YOU BUY the MAF sensor, clean your Throttle Body. Should do the trick.

Siddique2 how did you clean your throttle body? Did you do yourself or a shop?

I would like to know also, my check light just came on with this code.

getting ECU reprogrammed is easiest cleaning throttle doesnt always help replacing MAF didnt help I unplug negative battery terminal for a few seconds and the CEL is gone for a few days. When it is back on, I do the same process.

There is a fault from factory that unfortunately has not become recall, but was recognized through a technical service bulletin. Getting the ECU Reprogrammed for code p0101 usually costs around 100$ for coding/labor plus 100$ to get CEL checked (mandatory)

I ended up fixing mine with part replacement, it wasn't the bug luckily, it was a bad airflow sensor. I tried cleaning it first to no avail. Found a 18$ replacement on ebay took 3 or 4 days for the code to clear (was too lazy to manually do it). No re-program needed, been clear the past 2 months.

Replaced maff sensor took care of issue for me. Just make sure to monitor the values if you can with scan tool. Should read around 2.5gs at idle and around 20 to 25% load value for engine.

Some people said the ECM Reprogramming solved the issue I changed the MAF sensor, I took it to Nissan and had it reprogrammed, and after spending over $400. I had found a solution on another forum on cleaning the Throttle Body. I had a mechanic remove the throttle body from the car and you can purchase throttle body cleaner from Auto Zone for less than 10 bucks. You basically spray it real good. Leave it to settle for a couple hours and then put it back on the vehicle. That solved the problem for me. I actually sell cars and I had another Altima 2012 with the same MAF. (Cleaned the throttle body again and it solved the problem)

3 months after replacing the maf sensor mine actually came back so I’m looking at cleaning the throttle body next. The most annoying thing is I have no idle or performance issues so I keep debating whether to mess with it. Gas milage is a touch low but 20mpg 80% city is about right for a 7+ y/o vehicle. Any additional thoughts?

I had the same problem. Replaced the MAF sensor twice. Had the ECM reprogrammed. Cleaned the throttle body. You have to get the ECM reprogrammed with the original MAF sensor or one from the dealership. You can't use one from the parts store.

@GuruCKYFD Is that the order you fixed your issue in? Are you saying you need to have the original sensor (I still have mine original but, might be bad) or get one from the dealership to reprogram the ECM? My service engine light ended up going off this morning after I ignored it for a couple of weeks (I did confirm it was the same code last week). So then cleaning the throttle body won't do anything to fix the light. I likely need a ECM reprogram to fit the MAF signal tolerance better and reduce false positive failures?

I had the ECM reprogrammed at the dealership with the second sensor. Light went off for about 5 days. Bought a second sensor because I was still getting the same error code. Tried cleaning the throttle body next. A co-worker had a Micro Mechanic. I put the original sensor in and he reset the ECM and the light has been off ever since.

Got it thanks, I'll wait and see if it comes back and look into resetting the ECM if it does, I assume that has to be done by a dealer or mechanic?

You can do it yourself easily by purchasing a simple OBD code reader that is available at your local parts supply store or they are also available at Walmart. The cheapest ones are around $20 and although they don't perform as well as the more expensive models, they are very easy for anyone to use and have the capability of giving a code number which can then be researched online. Such a code reader is also capable of clearing the codes. After which you can keep a lookout for the same codes which may or may not reappear. If they continually come back it's safe to say they are actual problems that need to be addressed. There has been many instances in my experiences of a code that has set the check engine light, CEL, that are a one time occurrence simply because of a one time instance where the parameters that govern that particular code were just enough to trigger the light, but are not an actual problem. Just keep in mind that when the system is erased of its code(s), the computer has to go through a period of relearning several areas that are controlled by components that evolve over time as it gains more experience from the way they are operated. They are called readiness tests. Each manufacturer has their own design on accomplishing that . Expect the car to operate a little abnormal for the next 50 100 miles until such tests have been completed. Again, do not be apprehensive about attempting to DIY. Many people are correct about advising to let places like Auto Zone and the such read your codes for free, but they aren't allowed by law to clear the codes due to liability issues. With the wealth of information available to everyone on the internet, it is amazing the power of having a code number Googled. One last thing, keep in mind that as with anything, there are some people who offer poor advice even when they have the best intentions. It is a wise move to stick with the forums made available by the manufacturer of your particular vehicle. Sometimes it is easy to get caught up in a solution offered by an inexperienced mechanic because of the desperation we face when looking for that miracle that will fix our problems the easy way. I have been a mechanic for over twenty years and even accomplished a successful career in NASCAR. When I am faced with a problem I haven't experienced I find myself acquiring as much information as possible from any source available and then use logic to make my own decision as to what I should do next. I wish everyone the best.

I've been watching it go off and on now at various lengths of time and ignoring it with no issues so far. If I get annoyed with the light I just reset the ECM and it goes away for a bit (no issues so far, I don't have performance issues though either). Winter it seems to be on substantially less oddly enough. I had a chat about that with a guy at the dealership (they had a 10$ oil change special I take advantage of), he had recommended cleaning the throttle body as well. I've just been lazy I need to do that and put the original MAF in to see if it does anything different.

What can i do if my Nissan altima showing me the code 10-4-4-2 ? i take the reading by following instructions by using the ignition key and depressing gas pedal and counting how many time Service engine light flash.

Has anyone had actually problems while getting p101 code ? I've had 2 MAF sensors in 6mo, 2nd was from Nissan, 2nd time around relearn was done. I put 1st one in and wasn't aware of the relearn process. I'm still stalling when idling in rush hour if I'm between 5-20mph for a while. Once I can open it up, don't have problem. Ive also had engine idle sensor come up, and camshaft sensor. Also, Car is not running hot. I'm hoping it's not the turbo.

Yes, I had the same problem with the OEM MAF Sensor on a 2014 Altima S. I purchased a OEM MAF from Ebay. Same problem with P0101 Code. P0101 is Sensor Out Of Range. The Nissan folks cure it by reprogramming at a cost to you. If you remove the Air Scoop Intake, that goes into the square hole for Air Filter Box and look at the 5/16" Foam tape which seals the Intake, you will see one complete side of foam missing. I used RTV to add a piece of rubber around the side to seal the Intake. No more P0101 repeating code. Simple fix that saved me the out of pocket cost to reprogram. If the Short Term Fuel Trim is right at ZERO, then the engine is performing correctly, it's just that the Air Flow is out of range. Simple fix, and access is easy with the plastic push pins. One would think enough case histories from Nissan would have found this simple problem. But, the Cape Girardeau, MO Mechanic didn't know about it. And he said, "NO AMOUNT OF REPLACING PARTS WILL FIX IT. HAS TO BE REPROGRAMMED, PERIOD". Well Matt, you were Incorrect, and should listen to your customers. After all they pay your weekly salary. Check it out. Larry K. SwampEast Mis-er-y

@GurugJ25P1, nice I'll have to try that. Mine seems to come on/off with temperature and a new air filter will sometimes clear it. Just to confirm you seal the square side of the intake, where the scoop assembly meets the square intake for the air cleaner body? Isn't that RTV silicone an adhesive as well? How difficult is it to get off if you have to clean the throttle body or otherwise? Is there anything that might be more easily removed but still seals well?

I had it at the dealer for 10 hours and they didn't even look at it yet. So I pulled it out, went to Autozone and bought Seafoam High Mileage, poured it in gas tank. Light went off after a few days and gas mileage went from 19.9 to 23.1! I was skeptical and ecstatic at the same time. It worked using that for about two months, but I knew it was just a bandaid. Sure enough, light came back on. Gas mileage dropped to 21.9. Only died out once since then, but had a few times it almost did when idling. I'm going to get the throttle body cleaned next, as that was one thought when I took it to the shop before the dealer. That, coupled with responses here and the seafoam working well for a while seems to point towards it being dirty. I also think there may be a small vacuum leak somewhere. Thanks for all the feedback, and sad so many have the same problem with Nissan not doing the right thing and recalling

I have a 2011 and I have had so many issues with p0102 code. The light will come on and it will sputter out and not crank. A lot of the time I can just use an obd2 reader and reset it and it drives fine. I’ve tried different MAF sensors and had it reprogrammed a couple of times it seems. But I think the last thing for me to try is getting an OEM MAF. Then maybe having to reprogram the ECU if that doesn’t work. I’ve just been hesitating since I have other vehicles and the sensor is around $230 on just a possible fix.

So a few things, You can do the reset yourself.. Your resetting, not programing, The car will have to relearn on its own. Some cant Relearn.. They go back to the original factory settings, and they need to be programmed. You can tell this by doing this next part Im about to tell you. To reset your ECU.. (your computer). Unplug your cars battery. The negative cable. Leave it unplugged either overnight, or Unplug both, and then touch the negative and positive cables together. Your trying to drain all the power the car still has stored inside it. (Capacitor and resistors still retain power after the battery is disconnected. this needs to drain). When that has been done. You can attach your cable/s back, and turn your car on. If your check engine light is off, Your ECU has reset.. (NOT REPROGRAMMED) Only ways to reprogram, are these. You drive the car and allow the car to RELEARN on its own. Some Makes and models will not relearn. It will have a TSB (tech service bulletin). An unless they have a recall. (None come to mind) you will have to pay to have your ECU programmed. You can also have your ECU programmed by someone with a TUNER. If you know someone with a tuner, Such as Uprev, or Bullydog.. IT must be your make and model that its set too. Almost the same price to have the STEALERSHIP program a ECU as buying the Bullydog tuner and having your ECU have the Tuner connected to it. Disclaimer: While I am a Certified Master Tech and ACE Certified Mechanic, I am not giving you a Diagnosis. I am giving you general Knowledge. I can not Fix your car if i cant see or touch your car.

I am so fed up with Nissan, this is the first and will be my last Nissan. I have replaced 4 of these MAS from New about every 30,000 miles. at over 200 bucks a pop. I have replaced the air compressor 2 times and then found the issue is the connector. everything on this car is designed to break at a given time. NISSAN I am so done. This will be my 5th MAS. I just replace it and then clear the code with my walmart code reader and let it learn everything again. POS

No offense taco9BHX1D but any reason you don't get the after market MAF? Those come with a lifetime warranty, that said your issue sounds alot like the need for the reprogramming rather than actually bad MAFs.

Ok a final end to my adventure, after driving for 3 years with it on I had some stuff I needed done at the dealership. Had them look at it and asked them to just fix it cuz I was getting annoyed with it. They did recommend the ECU reprogram per the TSB, it was 160$ and I've been without the code light for over a month now.