2010 FORD ESCAPE FANS RUNNING CONSTANTLY
I have a 2010 Ford Escape. Recently the Air Conditioning control went out and would not work on setting 1. At the same time the 2 radiator fans under the hood started running constantly and very loud. Took it to a Ford place, they fixed the switch and the air works fine, but the fans are still running at max speed and all the time. They say there's nothing wrong, or no errors showing up. Any suggestions?
Did they replace the fan relay?
They said unless their computers showed a problem they couldn't replace it...
2010 ford escape 4I AWD I'm having the exact same issue the fan speed setting 1 ,also at the exact same time the 2 radiator fan spinning full speed and noisy i out of warranty but i fixed the fans speed by replacing the resistor I still having the radiator fans going crazy Very odd that we having the same issue that happen in same time If you the fixe for radiator fan let me know Thanks
My wife's 2010 Escape XLT is doing the same thing. I googled it and this was the first topic. I am also out of warranty. The A/C and heater knob wont work on 1 and teh fan runs very loudly...Guess I'll brinng it to the dealership and let them fix it but I'm sure its gonna cost a pretty penny
Wow, obviously a common issue. I started searching on the problem of the rad fans running steady but I also have the problem with the fan speed #1 not working. Has anyone found a solution?? Brad
Found the problem! (well, for me anyway). There is a pressure sending unit that is used by the AC system that runs the rad fans to maintain proper head pressure (mounted on the top of the accumulator). If this unit is defective, the computer goes into a default mode and runs the fans on high. Also, I don't think there is any connection to the interior blower issues that have been reported. That seems to be more of a coincidence.
Hi Bratts, do you have any more details about the location of the pressure unit and it's part number? To much of a coincidence, same exact problems after warranty on mine to.
Hi SMIS The sensor is located on the top of the AC accumulator which is located on the passenger side of the engine bay. (I've attached an image of the sensor and its pin-out.) This device is not simple switch. It put out a voltage between about 1~5 volts to indicate the AC's head pressure to the computer. As the pressure rises, the computer reacts by turning the rad fans on low. If the pressure rises further, the computer runs the fans on high. A further increase will stop the AC compressor to prevent the pressure relief valve from opening and dumping the refrigerant charge. In my case, I found that at a certain pressure, the sensor would electrically go "open" and the output voltage would drop to 0 volts. This would cause the computer to run the fans on high and stop the compressor as a default mode
Thank you, i'll find out if it's the same issue pretty soon.
Not Sure If It Helps ANYONE BUT. I Have The Same Problem. Ac Doesn't Blow Cold Air. Heat Works Fine. No Air When On (1) Setting But 2,3,And 4 All Work Fine With The Heat. Both Radiator Fans Kick On THE SECOND I START MY CAR And Do NOT Cycle Like They Should. Took It Back To The Dealer. They Seem Certain It Is Two Issues. Also They Said The Radiator Fans Were Running Because The A/C Isn't Working??? Here's What They Told Me I Needed Blower Motor Switch $108.30 Labor 1.5 hours --------------------------------------------------- Expansion Valve $168.00 Compressor $478.92 Receiver Dryer - $148.96 Condenser $377.77 Labor 4.5 hour _______________________________________________________ Total For Repair $1,931.40 Now Keep In Mind, This is a FORD Dealership Giving Me These Prices So I Know Their Prices Are Probably Higher Then They Should Be. I Just Got My Car 2 Weeks Ago And The Dealer Will Be Fixing Mine No Charge. Hope This Helps
It sounds like they quoted you on replacing the entire AC system except for the evaporator and interconnecting piping! I wonder if they wold replace the engine if you fouled a spark plug... :) Keep us posted Bratts
There's got to be something wrong here. I know that when the sensor fails, it doesn't throw any codes so the tech has nothing to go on. It appears that if the computer can't tell them what to replace, they replace everything. I would get another opinion! Maybe find a real mechanic that understands electrical and electronics to actually trouble-shoot the problem. (remember the old days when that's what mechanics did??)
Did the "machine" bring up any codes? that could be useful information
Brats I have a similar issue.....the rad fans kick on to high 3-5 seconds after engine is started regardless if heat or ac is on......my compressor also only stays on for about 5 seconds when ac turned on then shuts off .......when on line pressure is good (35)....when off shows high(70).....how do I validate a faulty cutoff switch on the accumulator?
Hey Larry I just got my AC working again last week so great time for your question. My problem turned out to be the expansion valve. It was completely closed and wouldn't open causing excessive head pressure when all of the refrigerant got pumped to condenser side. Once the head pressure built up, it would take a very long time to equalize. As long as the pressure stays high, the computer will run the fans on high and prevent the compressor from running. At this point, I'm not sure if my switch was defective or if it was just doing its job. I know that it is designed to put out a voltage signal between 1~5 volts to tell the computer what the system head pressure is. In my case, it would go electrically open causing it to function like a "cut-off" switch. I replaced mine then discovered the expansion valve issue. I still had the same problem with the fans running and the compressor not running but the new switch never goes electrically open Do you have a way of checking the head pressure? It should be around 130~200 psig with the system running. If it's stuck around 250 or higher with the system off, the expansion valve might be the problem. I borrowed a set of gauges and that's when I found the problem Regarding the expansion valve, I took the old one out, removed the spring and seat, cleaned it and reinstalled and now it's working perfect. If it acts up again, I'll replace the valve
Nightmare continue........ ,but i fix my problem. Well let me explain my story I replace the AC pressure switch and the issue was still the same. I notice in the last Falls that my ac was stopping at high RPM. But i didn't worry because it was almost winter. But now in Ontario is very hot and humid When i put my AC ON was just working in idle or on a cold day. I decide to bring my vehicle to a AC repair shop to get a estimate of the repair. They said that probably my AC clutch that slipping when is getting hot.(make sense) I didn't really believe him and decide to do some test before replacing the clutch. Check the clutch and was ok. I was thinking and other people also said that maybe was my climate control unit. But again decide to do more test myself on the climate control. I notice that if i turn on the climate control on that the fan will stay on all the time even when i turn climate control off. I when to a friend garage and plug the snap on scanner again and test the climate control and all button respond properly. During those test i was monitoring the AC pressure and Bamm notice something wrong. When monitoring the pressure i notice that the range of the pressure was 2600 to 3100(kilopascal) average normal. The compressor was going on at the right pressure and go off when to high. But the main issue is the pressure was building too fast. Decide to remove some of the pressure from the AC system. Main problem was to much Freon in the system from factory. All the fan work ok and the AC is nice and cold That why also that i see in other post that Ford replace there complete system and that fix there issue. Im glad that was only too much Freon. I'm sorry about the grammar I hope that help someone.
Hi Bratts, you seem to be the experienced one here. I have the same issue. It started yesterday out of the blue(bad Ford pun), fans run on high constantly, #1 on the ac fan control does not work, and the ac blows hot air with the compressor kicking on intermittently. Everything seems to work better at night when it is cooler. I cant check the line pressure correctly with the compressor not running but with it off gauge says 135psi. I have looked into the sensors and switches including the part # 19d594 pressure switch you mention above. But I also noticed there is a part # 19e561 accumulator switch that some call a cycling switch on the ford parts website that should control the clutch cycling on/off. My question is? Do you think I should get the accumulator switch or take another course of action initially. I don't want to drop 50$ on the part unless I absolutely need to. It seemed to fix your problem, right? Thanks Alot
Along with my post above. I am trying to fix the AC not blowing cold air issue, not just the fans.
Hi Willis. I'm an industrial refrigeration mechanic and controls engineer by trade so I understand the technology. It's getting the required information that's hard! Regarding the switch / cycle switch / sending unit.. or whatever you want to call it, I'm second guessing my original post regarding it. What I found and what tijoeg found (see above post from him), the problem with the radiator fans running on high and the compressor not running have to do with the high pressure situation. This is the high side pressure, not the low side pressure which has a different size gague connector. I had to borrow a set of compatible gauges to find the problem. According to tijoeg, he removed a small amount of refrigerant to correct the problem while I removed the expansion valve, cleaned it and reinstalled it. If my actual problem was too much refrigerant, I would have corrected the charge when I recharged the system. Here's another thought that may bring the blower fan into the fold: If the blower fan stops running, the expansion valve will close down causing more refrigerant to pump to the high side of the system (cndenser side). If there was more refrigerant in the system than the accumulator can hold, the system may "hydro-lock" meaning that all of the refrigerant is in liquid form between the compressor and the expansion valve. In this state, the heat from the radiator would drive the pressure high enough to lock the system out on high pressure. What got me thinking about this is that this issue always seems to be accompanied by the blower fan not working. What I suggest is replacing the blower fan resistor board (assuming that is the problem with your blower fan) and taking it to a shop that has the proper gauges to verify the high pressure situation. If so, they can use the gauges to equalize the charge between the low and high side which may correct the problem and get you back up and running. If that works, you can have them use the "subcooling" method to verify that the system is over-charged then remove some refrigerant to get the charge proper. I would shoot for 10F subcooling. The superheat should be between 5F and 15F You don't need to understand all this jargon but if the shop doesn't, take your Escape somewhere else. Also, keep me posted. I'd sure like to get to the bottom of this problem. I hope people aren't paying $1500 to $2500 to correct an issue that is caused by an over-charge! Bratts
@Bratts Very well said and explained.
I messed around with it some more and took out quite a bit of 134. The AC runs good now. But the fans still run on high almost constantly. I noticed the engine bay gets very hot, more than any car I have worked on. The front bumper cover does seem pretty restrictive for a car driving in 100+ degree weather. But technicality aside, I was quoted 230$ for the repair. I let out a bit of R134a and now it works. Scammers. I still think Bratt's theory on the bad blower motor switch might have something to do with building pressure in the system. But tijoeg's solution helped me...for now. Thanks to both of yall for the input.
Removing some 134 was the answer for me as well.....high side pressure was too high now cycling normal......fans are still constantly running on high however air is cold......I will keep researching and playing around with my new toy.....thanks for the help guys
When the AC is on the fan will stay on all the time. One of my issue was the fan was staying on even with the heater on ,but now they go off with heater on. Also after you turn the AC off the fan should come off after few minutes (sometime up to five minutes)
Larry, the radiator fans should cycle between high and low as required for engine cooling and A/C head pressure as required. Do they run on high "all" the time or just when it's hot out? On a side note, my blower fan resistor board just failed again!
I apologize up front for my lack of knowledge or my overall understanding of everything being talked about here, but I have 2009 Ford Escape and AC stopped working. What caught my eye in this message blog was I do recall thinking the fan was running a lot and it appears I may have some kind of overpressure condition in my system due to coolant blow off from the relief valve, I’ll get to that in a bit. I took my vehicle into a non dealer mechanic and they evac the coolant and refilled with a dye. The AC worked again and it was assumed it was low and looking for a leak with the dye. Two weeks later the AC quit again (no cold air). I took it back to the shop and they said there were no obvious leaks and after evac and weighing the coolant (or however it’s measured) they said it was full. I don’t trust the accuracy of their measurement only because once the AC quit, I would periodically try to turn it on, and one time right at engine start (AC button was “on” on the console) there was some kind of blow off. I could hear the whooshing sound and saw a cloud blow out the drivers side of the hood. (the odd thing was no dye showed up from the blow off when the mechanic looked at it, I had checked with a black light too). So now the current mechanic recommended the dealer and I left. But the AC was working again with just a evac and refill being the only work done. Two weeks later same thing. AC quit, and I did see another blow off when cycling the AC button on the console while sitting in a parking lot. I had a new mechanic look at it yesterday. He said I was ½ lb low on coolant. He refilled with more dye and ran the system. He could not find any obvious leaks and said all components were operating as they should at this point. I have the vehicle back, AC working again and trying to keep better tabs on if there is a blow off of coolant before the AC quits. My thoughts were that something related to all the comments above is causing a high pressure situation and may be blowing off coolant while I’m driving and I don’t notice it while on the move. The coolant gets low enough and now the system shuts down due to low coolant (or whatever the diagnostic check is that prevents the AC from working when coolant is low). I’m stuck now waiting for it to fail again and checking for leaks via the dye, unless this information that you all have provided helps my mechanic. Any further advise/insight based on my experience with a blow off scenario that I can give to my mechanic beyond the above comments? (By the way, this new mechanic works out of his house and has a full up garage, lifts, coolant refill system, ect, all major equipment. I trust him over the dealer any day) Thanks Mike
HAD A 09 ESCAPE IN MY SHOP WHERE MY CUSTOMER COMPLAINT WAS HIS A/C WOULD BLOW COLD FOR A FEW SECONDS AND THEN BLOW WARM. THE FACT THAT EVERY TIME I SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF AND RESTARTED IT THE A/C WOULD WORK PERFECTLY FOR A FEW SECONDS AND SHUT OFF LED ME TO BELIEVE THAT IT WAS A PRESSURE ISSUE. BEING A BELIEVER IN THE K.I.S.S. [KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID] THEORY I FIRST LOOKED AT HOW CLEAN THE CONDENSOR AND THE RAD WAS. FROM EXPERIENCE I LEARNED THAT NO MATTER HOW CLEAN A RAD MAY LOOK SOMETIMES JUST CORROSION IN THE FINS ARE ENOUGH TO CAUSE A PROBLEM. TAKING OFF THE GRILL AND SEPERATING THE RADS SLIGHTLY ALLOWED ME TO SPRAY BOTH SURFACES DOWN WITH CAR WASH SOAP, LETTING IT SOAK FOR 5 MIN. AND WASHING IT WITH A WAND HOOKED TO GARDEN HOSE ON A HOT WATER TAP AND THEN BLOWING IT OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR. ALOT OF FINE SAND AND BUG MATERIAL WASHED OUT. APON RESTARTING OF THE VEHICLE THE A/C WORKED FINE.
I have a 2010 escape that I got over the winter and I noticed a month ago that the AC didn't work. I thought maybe it had to be fill, when I put a gauge on it was in the red showing overcharged. Still thought maybe the gauge was reading wrong, after reading the overcharging from this site K.I.S.S. sounded like a good idea. I released pressure with a cotter pin until the gas release sound changed and it released some fluid put the gauge back on it showed in the good range. turned the AC back on and actually got cold air. Thanks
Just checked my Freon level today because I was getting intermittent warm and cold when driving in the city and the rad fan ran at high speed as soon as the A/C turned on. I found that the system was also overcharged. After removing some of the Freon the system appears to functioning normally now, rad fans are operating a the normal speed. 2010 Escape XLT V6
I don't think the problem is an over-charge issue. I just got a copy of a SSM "Special Service Message" from my dealer. The problem is a defective "accumulator/receiver drier" that is releasing fine particles into the system and plugging up the expansion valve. This causes symptoms very similar to an over-charge and removing gas will improve operation for a while but it is not the cure. The fix is to replace the filter, flush and recharge the system. The problem is that most Ford dealers don't have a flushing machine so they just replace all of the components at the owner's expense! This has been a known issue sense Aug 26/2012 and the affected vehicles are 09-12 Marnier's and Escapes. What gets me is that there is no warranty what-so-ever regarding this issue. In some cases, the restriction can cause the pressure relief valve to pop, dumping part of the charge before the computer can stop the compressor. Does anyone know how to push this issue on an environmental basis? Bratts
Here's a good read http://www.pissedconsumer.com/reviews-by- company/ford-motor/complete-ac-failure-ac-dryer-failure- 20130420402060.html
I am having the same issues, my blower switch isn't working on setting 1 or 2 and my fans under the hood is running max speed when the AC is on. Took it to the local shop and they purged the system and said there was a lot of air in the system and the HI pressure side was way too high which was causing the fans to max out and the AC to shut down. The shop just doesn't know what is causing the issue at this point. Anyhow after purging the air the fans went back to normal speed and the AC worked perfect for about a month and the same things started again. I took it back and they purged it a second time, its been about a month and its now doing the same thing again so its going back again this week. The AC isn't coming on at all this time.
Charlies, first if you haven't already replace your blower fan resistor; this will address your fan control issue. It takes some effor but you can do it yourself. The part costs between $20 - $40 pending on where you buy it. Second, take a look at 'Bratts' answer above. It is most likely particles from the accumulator that is causing the increase in freon pressure. At a minimum you will most likely need to replace your accumulator.
I own an 2010 Escape and my AC only blow air (right now it's hot outside so it's blowing hot air). I contacted Form cistomer Service to issue a complaint....They said there is no existing recall on this problem....I file a complaint....If we all file complaint maybe FORd will do something or We could file a class action suit to recoup our repair money. This is obiviously a very common problem but FORD HAS TO KNOW ABOUT IT TO DO SOMETHING.
I also have 2010 Escape with interior fan that only operates on 4 (high). Levels 1,2 & 3 do not blow air. The Ford dealership said it's probably the blower fan resistor which the total cost to replace would be about $100. I just spent $430 having the throttle body replaced and know of another person with a 2010 Mercury that had to have the throttle body also. Sounds like I can count on the defective accumulator/receiver drier next. Wow, much more than I ever thought would go wrong on a 3 yr old vehicle.
We have the same problem Escape XLT 2010 and our dealership says that we "need" to replace the whole AC system for just 4.000 CAD!!! Help!
Yeah true the system need to be replace or purge. This should be a recall,because so many people have the same issue. For me i release some pressure in the system,because i cannot paid $4000 to get it fix But since i remove some of the pressure it still work ok for now.
Bring it to another shop that has the PROPER EQUIPMENT to repair air conditioning and have them flush the system, remove and clean the expansion valve and replace the filter-drier. The issue is in the filter- drier which is located on the left side of the engine bay and is piped between the condenser (in front of the rad) and the expansion valve. The descant in the filter-drier breaks down and plugs the expansion valve with particles. Once the valve gets plugged, it blocks the refrigerant flow causing the high pressure situation. A pressure sensor mounted on top of the filter-drier signals the computer to stop the compressor before the pressure builds too high but because the valve is plugged, the pressure remains high for quite some time and the computer runs the rad fans on high in an attempt to lower the pressure. Your dealer is opting to replace the entire system instead of flushing it because they don't have the proper equipment to do it. Have your dealer show you the SSM "Special Service Message" on this issue. It shows the procedure and the updated part number for the new filter. Ford's suggested procedure is to flush the system, OR replace everything if your dealer doesn't have the flushing equipment. If your dealer doesn't have the proper equipment to do the job right, they should have it sent to a shop that does. It's kind of like bringing your car to a shop to get a flat tire fixed and they opt to sell you a new tire/rim combo because they don't have an air compressor to pump up your tire after plugging the hole... Also, even if you don't flush the system, the new filter-drier will filter out the particles before they can plug the valve up again. This is what I did with mine and have never had another problem with it. Bratts
Thanks a lot guys, they told us that they flushed the system and then reduced the pressure as well. It is working ok for now but it's not summer here. They suggested that we replace everything (for 4.000 CAD) but definitely that's not a choice for us. Thanks for all the info, we will take it to another dealership.
When will Ford be making a recall on this issue? I know 2 other 2011 Escape owners with the same issue as me. Also, I was in a parking lot when an Escape drove by on a cold day, and I heard the engine revving full with fan belts on full blast. My gas mileage stinks too. I was quoted initially for $2500 for the replacement noted above. Later my dealership offered $1700 as a new price. Also said the part is on backorder - sounds like a lot of demand. "RE-CALL" I bet the lawyers are working harder than my fan belts to try and prevent this!
You got lucky! For us here in Vancouver BC the dealership asked for 4.000 CAD in order to replace the whole AC system, totally crazy! Would be nice if we can get more owners with the same issues so Ford can give us a better answer or RE CALL!
Hi Guys I have a 2010 Ford Escape XLT 6cyl and recently the air started blowing hot and my fans were running full blast. Car was not hot. The air would cool when temp outside was under 70 and around 60. I came to this site and found answers. Bratts was partially right. I changed the Presure sensor on top of the accumulator, 138 dollars at Ford and that was not it. I then took it to pep boys and I told them what Bratts said about clogging the filter. They checked and the presure was very uneven and over charged on one side. They told me I had to change out the condenser and expansion valve and filter and recharge for 1200 dollars. I told them to take out some about 7 ounces of frion and lo and behold it worked all the way home and a cpl hours later when it reached 90 i took it for a spin and all was cooling good. so I will report again to let you know all is still ok. There was another guy on here said he did the same thing and it stopped working a cpl days later. But I did change the ac pressure switch on the accumulator very easy to do.You can probably get this much cheaper at a parts store. Good Luck...
I have a 2010 Ford Escape XLT 62,000 miles on it and a 6 cyl. I have had the air and the throttle positioning sensor go out and replaced that myself. the trans on this escape has always seemed funny to be right from the get go. When ya take your foot off the accelerator it does not idle down right away its like it hesitates a bit. I have a clicking noise like in the suspension when i hit bumps, had it checked and nothing yet. I tell ya I was very leary about purchasing this escape with only a 36,000 mile warranty and sure enough it feels like I am going to get bitten. not sure if i should trade it while I can or not...
Well have a 2011 escape v6 xlt with the same issue still in warrenty. Fans on high right after start up and a/c doesn't blow cold air along with no air on first setting just 2-3-4. Will check back in after seeing dealer.
I am having the same issue. I got a ac pressure switch but the one I got is a 2 prong and I think the one on top of the accumulator is a 3 prong. Can anyone help clarify?
Having the same issue with my 2010 Escape. Out of warranty of course. Out of the blue one day last fall the air conditioner started blowing hot. Pulled into a small gas station and they said my AC compressor shut down because too much pressure. Let some freon or whatever it is out, and it ran fine. For one day. Also noticed a cloud of something blow out once upon starting the car with the AC on. I had forgotten about that. Dealer suggested I replace the accumulator assembly and some other assembly which I put off until March when I was due for an inspection. They also stated that now the AC pressure was too high and removed some. Then they repaired a small leak. Right now they have given me a loaner car until they figure out whats going on because after a day it stops blowing cold again. Seems as if it is cool outside it does work, because one cool evening I tried it and it seemed to work. I started taking care of this in March so I would have it fixed by the time the hot weather came, and here we are in May and it still isn't fixed. Will check back in.
Ok so I am having the same problem as described above. 2010 Ford Escape A/C blows cold air (ice cube cold) then blows warmer air sometimes. It is off and on for the last week now. It mostly happens when temp outside is above 82 degrees. With the car in drive and A/C on it starts off cold. Then you feel a slight clunk (the A/C clutch) disengaging and warmer air starts to fill the cab. When it is blowing out cold air everything seems to be fine. The air is cold and the pressure off the gauge is within limits. Condensation builds on the accumulator and drips from the cab orifice. The minute the car starts to act up the clutch disengages, cab temp becomes warm, and pressure on low side rises to 100 PSI and the condensation dries up from all the lines. The warmer air sometimes last for seconds, or minutes. The time is never the same. I tried to troubleshoot by swapping the tail gate relay and A/C Clutch relay with no change. So the relay to the A/C clutch is good. I also washed out the condenser of all the bugs, sand and debris which was suggested on another forum. As of this morning it was working great but it was on 72 degrees on my 28 minute drive into work so the hotter temps have yet to come today. My next step is to jump the high low pressure switch to see if the clutch stays engaged or not. If it stays engaged I am thinking it’s my high/low pressure switch of am I way off. Thoughts or ideas?
Issue is with a flawed design. There is a bag I descant balls that literally explodes and fills your entire cooling system. Everything needs to be replaced. I am at 80000 and the dealer and ford canada are paying most of it except for 250 because it's a known issue and terrible design. Frankly I believe it should be a recall to replace. Also you will notice huge paint chips stripped from your wheel wells. I have a 2011 and this is the worst car I have ever owned.
I'm trying to replace that sensor/switch that Bratts referenced but I cannot figure out how to remove the old one? Anybody know?
I have the same problem. $2850 + tax to fix. Apparently consumer report says this is a problem with Ford Escapes. Time for a social media campaign to complain to Ford. They are making a lot of money from us and taking a lot of our time.
I had same problem with my escape 2011. Radiator fans was running all the time no matter if AC was on or off. I only replace the thermostat for a new one and also the AC pressure switch and problem solved....
Wow. This is pretty disheartening reading all these posts...just bought a 2010 Escape XLT with 48000 miles 2 days ago. Everything was fine yesterday. Guess what happened today.... No fan on 1 or 2 and radiator fans at full speed when AC is on. I DO have cold air on 3 and 4. I have an appointment with the service dept at the dealership I bought it from tomorrow. Curious to see how this works out......
Welcome to the "Escape" Club! Please let us know what they say... We must do something all together with this obviously recall issue.
They said it was a blower resistor. They replaced it and so far it's working fine. We will see what happens.
Chuck... you were right. And here is a good website to fix it on your own....http://louissimons.com/2013/ 07/replacing-the-ac-blower-resistor- on-a-2009-ford-escape/. Hope this helps everyone.
.but my fans still run full blast when the AC is on. Any ideas?
my ford eccape 2002 model xlt 2.0. my problem plug 2 and 3 not funtion.I replaece a new coil. Help me
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