2005 transmission starts out in 3rd or 4th gear


Asked by sf49erfn Jan 26, 2011 at 06:01 PM about the 2005 Ford Escape XLS

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 2005 2.3l fwd with the cd4e.  Last week I was having some shifting problems where it was shift hard into first and second gear and the o/d light was flashing. After parking it, it was fine until today.  Now the vehicle starts off in a high gear, 3rd or 4th.  Feels like it is 3rd sometimes and 4th sometimes.  It won't start in 1st gear and it doesn't shift out of the gear its in.  It is in the gear solid also, no slipping. The o/d light is flashing and the engine light came on.  I pulled codes and I got three codes.  P1715 Shift solenoid B inductive signature, P0741 Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit performance or stuck off, and P1714 Shift solenoid A inductive signature.
Anyone have any idea what would cause this problem?

15 Answers

Mike Bonnell

The computer is now seeing that the transmission is in such a BAD way that it has gone into default mode so you can get it to a technician to get it repaired. It usually is second gear as default so you can go 30 -35 mph without over revving the engine. On to the problem, it look sto be a power issue not getting to the proper solinoids. There is a common fuse for the system that may be getting corroded or is blown - It is in spot F11 in the battery junction box. If the fuse is good you need to follow the power path ( White-Red Wires ( 3) to the transmission connector. Check the tranmission connector for corrosion also. I fond it hard to believe that you have lost multiple circuits from the PCM - the power side is more likely. Good Luck

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.
Not Active

first try changing your maf sensor,if that does not fix the problem your tourk converter lock out is bad.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Mike Bonnell

Both Items mentioned will not affect shift solenoids.

Not Active

want to bet on it.

Mike Bonnell

Dont have to .. NO MAF codes and No TCC slippage codes All codes are leading you in the direction of a power issue. Look at the electrical schematic for each solinoid not working ... All codes are related and not separate issues like you are thinking. MAF sensor also will not make the the OD light blink. Take care

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

When it sits and cools down it starts to drive okay. Then it acts real goofy. sometimes it shifts hard into first and then sometimes it will take off in second gear, sometimes it takes off in third, and sometimes in fourth. Sometimes it works perfect, after sitting. Yesterday it was flashing the o/d light and it locked in the engine light. I checked the fuses last night and all of them were good. I was checking out the wires which seem fine, but I pulled the connector off of the shift solenoid and cleaned it out real good with some cleaned and put it back on. When I went to drive it the engine light was off and no flashing light. I drove it for probably 75 miles and it ran perfect with no lights coming on. I guess I will wait and see. Hopefully it is fine now or could it be something getting hot? Last night was cold out and it is warm during the day. This is phoenix.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Mike Bonnell

As I expected - It was probably bad connector connections - Good job tracing that down. You may want to put a electrical protectant right into that connector. They also make a Very expensive contact reactor that makes electrical connections exremely good and good for all small connections and connectors called stabilant 22. If it acts up again you may want to clean that connector real good with contact cleaner and use that before reconnecting Good Luck

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Mike Bonnell

To answer your other question - Yes heat has a LOT to do with electrical conductivity

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Okay. I was gone all weekend so I didn't drive the vehicle. Came back this morning and the thing is still acting crazy. It mainly does this stuff during the day when it is warmer outside (if that matters). I usually don't have many problems when it is the evening and cooler outside. Drove good for about 30minutes today and then it started taking off in a higher gear and shifter hard into first gear and then into second hard also, but shifted through the gears all the way to overdrive. Then what it does is it wont go into 1st gear anymore when I stop. It will take off in 2nd, or 3rd, or maybe overdrive. It isn't always the same. It picks a gear and then sticks with that gear sometimes and other times drops into first hard after I start to take off. Then sometimes it shifts through the gears okay and other times it will take off in 3rd gear and stay in 3rd and won't shift out of it. i spent some time cleaning wires and connectors, but nothing seems to help. Any chance this is a turbine shaft speed sensor problem or something? The funny thing is that when it's doing this I can park it and leave it for a few hours or overnight and then it drives perfect for awhile. I assume until some sensor gets good and warm. todays dtc codes were P1715 (shift solenoid b) and P0741 (torque converter clutch solenoid)

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

It was jumping gears a little bit today too. driving down the road it would shift gears for no reason like from o/d to 3rd or to 2nd. Every shift is a good shift and there is no slipping.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

im having almost the same thing with my 2003 for escape. I had the transmission rebuilt one year ago I am a month over my warranty after taking it to the shop it is worse I think they replaced a cylinoide. I do have tranny fluid but it smells burned. I also took it to a different shop where they checked codes po731 =incorrect ratio and p0741 tourque converter clutch system stuck off.... what do I do?!? I love my car and cant afford a new one is my transmission bad??, did they not do a good job rebuilding? thanks ...ash

14 out of 14 people think this is helpful.

I have a Nissan Quest 2004, same problem. A "transmission specialist" told me it was necessary to disable the transmission and replace the valve body and maybe other pieces, all for about $1200-$1500! Then I took the car to AAMCO "transmission specialists", and again same solution: take down the transmission, open it, and replace bla bla bla they asked for $380 just to take down the transmission and to replace parts a range from $850 to $2500 !!! All they scanned the car, and perform a test drive to be sure about what could be wrong with it. To make this answer short, finally I took the car to Advance auto parts, they scanned for free! And told me that camshaft solenoid sensors (both side and back) were needed to replace, so I buoght them and search a video on youtube about how to replace them, OMG I couldn't believe how easy it was, and just three hors after my car was hitting the road. (The transmission was not making any noise, just started in 3rd). Total cost finally $140,00 !

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I have a question I have a 2005 ford escape xlt everything works it cranks up and runs good but, my issue is it just all of a sudden will not move in drive I have to put it all the way back in drive 1 in order for it to move at all forward however it will move in reverse normally but can you explain why this happened all of a sudden...

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.

sf49erfn : did you ever find out the problem?


I have a 2004 escape its leaking transmission fluid and when I go to take off it acts like it takes it's time then it will all of a sudden it will shift real hard it's a automatic I put transmission fluid in it but it keeps leaking out can u help me

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

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