Why is my Corolla vibrating???
i have a 2007 Corolla with 23,000 miles on it that I love. I bought it used and have had zero problems for a year and a half. 2 weeks ago the car started to vibrate. From the second the car starts till the second i turn it off it vibrates. it is coming from the engine and I can feel it in the steering wheel and seat. my toyota dealership said it was normal. yeah right. $10,000 for a vibrator. Please help!!! Why is it vibrating and how can I fix it?
Definitely not normal. Usually when the steering vibrates at highway speed it's your tires that need replacing. When it vibrates while braking then your brake pads need replacing. When the entire car shakes from idle, to acceleration, to idle and stop, it could be your transmission. A much bigger and more pricey problem. Does it shake only in drive? How about when you put it in reverse? Neutral? My thoughts are to take it to a transmission shop and have them check it out. If they say your transmission is good, then it could range from various engine issues to even how the engine is mounted.
i agree with this. is it vibrates in any gear (park, reverse, drive, neutral, etc) my guess would be something with the engine mounts.
Might be tires seperated the thread on tires or our of ballance
What grade petrol do you put in it? These engines seem to be temperamental about their petrol. I put 89 in, then every 4th i fill up with 93, sometimes 100 if I can find it.
1st, check all motor mounts (4 in total). 2nd, check if all spark plugs are ok! the should be Iridium tips. 3rd, check the connections of all 4 ignition coils; & last, check if your vehicle falls under the ECM Recall.
After replacing the ECM in these doing the A0J recall, they tend to run rough. If you just had this recall done try wiping off the throttle plate using a throttle plate cleaner soaked rag. I wouldn't recommend spraying the stuff down the intake because that may cause your check engine light to come on.
Yes, I did have a ECM recall. After it was replaced it started gradually and because of the cold has been persistent. I think it might be the motor mounts. How do I check the ignition coils? And how do I know if the spark plugs are bad? Thanks for the advice Albert!!!
High-octane is a waste of money if it isn't recommended for your car. It doesn't help your vehicle at all and decreases efficiency and power because octane resists burning.
Mine did the same thing, It was a tire that was about to blow. The mechanics had it up on the lift talkin to me about tie rods , inner arms ya da ya da ya da, The tires inside had seperated but the tire had not blown,,, yet. I am sure this is to late, but wanted to share.
I got a 2008 corolla as well and now I'm facing the same problem.When its in idle,it vibrates less but when I on my A/C,I can feel vibration on the steering,my seat and all over.Its so irritating and annoying that I don't feel like driving it.Last time I changed 2 enginge mountings but this vibration is not because of mounting,its coming from engine.
How do you check the motor mounts?....I had the intake manifold gasket replaced but no luck...in my case it only vibrates at idle....once moving it smooths out
Honestly, I'm stumped too. We just inherited a 96 Corolla. I've read about the engine mounts, transmission problems, etc. Before I take any major course of action (money is tight), I have yet to find a solid answer. The car vibrates while idle in drive, lower gears, and reverse. However, when it is in Neutral, the vibration is at a normal level. In Drive, once we accelerate, vibration is normal. At first I thought the engine was just set at too high an idle RPM, but then I noticed how the vibration changes while in Neutral and while maintaining consistent speeds over 20mph. Any ideas?
You can take the toyota recommendation, and save your money. Or you can make it most pronounced for a test. Have a tech lift with a long prybar while you recreate the concern. If a motor mount gets grounded out, the lift action, floats it and transfers it to where he pries. If power pulses are normally generated by your current calibration and level of emission data thru your computer. and it cannot be cancelled out mechanically, sometimes dampening methods are more successful. You need a tech who can understand this to verify, or eliminate, or explain the condition. If you cannot stand it, keep complaining to them and when the acceptable TSB repair is engineered, you would be contacted as an unsatisfied customer perhaps.
If he finds a condition during the test that isolates the engine from the chassis ? There may be a radical repositioning or spacer, or not yet known parts relationship that can be achieved. I had to do this at ford for chrysler, and then have plymouth do something about it. After they botched it, we had to isolate and reposition it and dampen it at ford, because quantity was job 1. Translate that one, hahaha. But it quit shakin so bad.
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