Electrical problem, Dashboard Panel Gages Dead, Check Engine Light and ABS Warning Light ON. Trip Meter Flashing "NoBus"

Enrgkg
0

Asked by Enrgkg Sep 21, 2013 at 06:01 PM about the 2000 Dodge Ram Pickup 1500 4 Dr SLT Extended Cab SB

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

2000 Dodge RAM 1500, Electrical Problem, Dashboard/Cluster Panel, all gages read zero continuously, after startup, all lights pass lamp test, and all but Check Engine Light and ABS Warning Light Stay go off. After 10-15 seconds Odometer/Tripmeter Reads, starts blinking then Flashes "No BuS."  I've never seen a Odometer/Trip meter flash, but it is now. What's up. Truck seems to run fine. The only thing I can fined wrong is one 5AMP fuse that is dead on both sides. Can't find a descent wriing diagram. Any Help.

13 Answers

thejeepdoctor
3,375

This means the vehical network is down. Odds are you have a module failure. I would start by unplugging the radio. This seems to be a weak point. There are several modules, asb,air bag, ect. When you unpulg the bad module the no bus light will go out. What 5 amp fuse is inop? I have access to diagrams.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
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willow37
145

would it be possible to get a diagram for the abs module, please.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
thejeepdoctor
3,375

the abs module should be at the center of dash, on the floor. I believe there is a trim piece you remove, then you unlatch the lever and flip it over to unlock it. The bus is down, so abs light comes on. You may try unplugging the inst cluster, then plug it back in....see what happens. If it all comes back and works properly, then there is a connection problem at back of cluster. Possible corrosion on terminals. If not, then you prob. have a bad module on the network.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
thejeepdoctor
3,375

the bus originates in the inst. cluster. so if it(the bus) becomes shorted, the no bus message appears. Is your truck a base model or does it have alot of options? here is what modules are on the bus. central timer module, radio,air bag module, pcm,overhead console,abs module and inst. cluster. beings the bus originates in ctuster, you need to unplug each module one at a time, till the NO BUS message goes away. That module will have to be replaced. Im gonna include a module and connector location diag. If you have any questions, just email me....

9 out of 9 people think this is helpful.
thejeepdoctor
3,375

another component view.

willow37
145

my truck is the base model. why does it only happen when it rains though if the problem is in the dash?

thejeepdoctor
3,375

See if your vehc. has the abs module at the driver side firewall area. If so, unplug it and look for water in connector. Its also called the cab. controller antilock brake. It will have brake lines going to it.. If there is water in it, blow it out and look for corrosion. There my have to be wires/terminals replaced.

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willow37
145

am I looking under the hood or inside the cab of the truck?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
thejeepdoctor
3,375

under the hood, driver side close to firewall

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
autoxdodge
0

If you've got the 5.9 or 5.2 I've got a refurbed module like new, would need to be reprogramed with your info. I paid $295 for it with no returns available. My problem with NO BUS ended up being a shorted crank sensor lead.

Jennifer Stempien
40

Dodge Ram 1500, all the dash lights flash warnings of needing service, shuts the truck off, only 8700 miles, my son avoided a collision and this happened, been to the dealership twice already. disconnected the battery, still same thing.

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
BCT1111
50

I have a 2011 Dodge Ram 2500. Wipers, headlights will not turn off all gauges not working, dash looks like a Xmas tree. I left the drivers side window down in the rain. Would getting the power window switches wet cause this?

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.
bittner845
0

2000 Dodge Ram PU 5.2 Had the same issue, no gages, 'NO BUSS' warning message. Connectors on the back side of the cluster, in my opinion, are not the best choice in this application. 2 multi-pin connectors on opposite sides of the rear of the cluster. In my case, I removed the cluster, cleaned contacts on both sides, adjusted the pins to assure they were making contact and re-installed the cluster. It worked. Now,only occasionally, the cruise control will not come on. A gentle 'rap' of a well placed closed fist on the top of the dash usually corrects the problem. Just Sayin'

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