My 2001 S10 has a hard starting problem if the truck sits between 1 to 4 hours. It starts fine if left over night. Has 46,000 miles.
some part of your fuel injector is leaking into the manifold. Have fuel pressure tested, have a feeling it will shoot up to the desired 60 psi then fall back now quickly. Replace the spider injector.
Thanks, I'll start with the test & spider.
Rather than crank the starter over and over.Turn your key to the on position about ten times .....Turn key to on wait 4 seconds before turning back to off then repeat before engaging starter.
if it's leaking from the spider then that will make it worse. It's essentially flooding the engine already. When cold it uses the extra fuel and actually works better. But when warm it just floods it. Your oil should also smell like fuel. If so you need to do this repair soon your it could casue damage to your crank bearings
If the spider is leaking the fuel has no way of getting into the oil unless he has an intake leak so serious the car wouldn't be running at all.. The injector is inside the sealed part of the intake. Thats why the fuel pressure regulator piggy backs on the injector without a vacuum line. The entire thing is under a vacuum. The regulator could also be the culprit so test it before replacing the injector. You will have to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the injector so after removing.g the intake just hook the fuel lines back up. Andrew is definitely on the right track I just want you to make sure its positively the injector leaking before you blow $250+ on a new one.
The 4.3 has ports on the lower intake that go to the cylinders so when fuel leaks it doesnt build up pools in the intake. The most common issue is the regulator leaking fuel directly into the intake, leaking thru the relieve ports and into the cylinders. On 95 and later vortecs the fuel seeps into cylinders 2 and 4, not sure which on later vortecs. This fuel when off will leak past the piston rings and into the oil. If the regulator is leaking then when the upper intake is off there will be a clean section around where the regulator is. It is supposed to have a black soot looking build-up, clean is bad in this case.
Btw if you have the vehicle taken this far apart you might as well pull the lower intake and replace those gaskets as well. The dexcool will get you eventually better to get it before it starts leaking rather than after and end up with a huge mess. Pick up a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual. Make sure you put the good metal gaskets in.
I have the same problem on my 99 S10. I have replaced fuel pump, regulator, spider, coil and wire from coil to distributor. Any other suggestions. I also replaced the electronic part which is on the same bracket as the coil. I am not sure of its proper name.
Do a fuel pressure leakdown test. Bad parts do exist or a fuel line may have a leak.
Mechanic did pressure check on fuel pump. He says it is fine. If it was leaking down wouldn't it be more difficult to start when cold instead of warm? I'm not sure. I am not much of a mechanic, just know enough to be dangerous. :-)
Yes if it was leaking down it would start harder the longer it sat. Bob you didn't mention the fuel fiter, was it replaced?
Fairly certain that it has been, but I will make certain.
For the sake of argument, let's assume that it has. This seems to be a common problem with this engine and as of yet no one seems to have pinpointed the problem. My mechanic is stumped.
Fuel filter has been changed.
If the regulator leaks fuel it does it fast, 10 seconds or 10 hours the pressure is gone, the difference is the dumped fuel leaks into the cylinders and floods it. If it sits overnight the fuel leaks into the oil, so now it's not flooded. So if the regulator leaks it will be harder to start warm then if you let it sit and cool down overnight. Smell your oil, it shouldnt smell like much if it has no gas in it.
I had it fixed. Replaced with the updated spider assembly, new plentum, and other parts. Works great now. Andrew, half the area under the manifold was clean and shiny, not a good sign in this case.
Nope, clean is not good.
I have the same problem, but when i put gas in a spray bottle and spray down in the injector it fires right up, so its like the heated engine evaporates the fuel from the line, but thats not possible is it?
My truck has the same problem. It is an 03 s10 4.3. The spider injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and intake manifold have all been replaced recently. If I turn the truck off and start it back up within a few minutes it fires right up. If I wait for a couple hours it cranks for 4-5 seconds before starting. After sitting overnight it's a role of the dice, sometimes will start right up, sometimes it will crank before starting. I did smell the Oil cap which reeks of gasoline, but the oil has not been changed since the spider injectors/regulator were changed (4 days ago). Any suggestions on next steps? Other than change the oil of course. Thanks!
Brad have you tried priming the system before starting it to see if that helps? Could be the check ball in the fuel pump allowing pressure to bleed off. The fuel pressure regulator closes and the fuel pump has a one way check ball in it to keep the system primed while it is sitting. If the check ball in the pump is bad and letting the pressure bleed then you are staying with 0 fuel pressure creating a hard start issue. Try turning the key all the way on for 4 seconds then off, then on again for 4 seconds then try starting it. If that solves the issue and this problem doesn't happen again while doing this then you know it needs a new pump. Or just prime it every time, that's what I would do.....
I've tried to prime it on several occasions today and it does not help. If anything it actually makes it worse.
Could be the idle air control stuck in the closed loop position, pull out and clean it with some carburetor cleaner. Vacuum leak, have you checked fuel pressure while it sits? Gauge needs to be hooked up before you let it sit, could be a vacuum leak that goes away when it warms up, quite common for that to happen.
Could be a battery, the flow of electricity warms it up, it's not uncommon for a battery to allow you to crank an engine and have no juice left for the control module, it only takes about 9 volts to crank an engine but the control module needs another volt or so on top of that to operate, temperature plays a big part in a batteries available power.
A battery can hold what's called a top charge for quite some time after the engine shuts off and that top charge may be what's making it quite easy to start.
My 04 s10 will not start after sitting for a day. I have fuel, spark, and air. I am at my wits end. Recently did a tune up, replaced fuel cap, did gasket set on the plenum, replace the fuel pressure regulator, replaced the coil. If I pull out the plugs after siting for a day, they are wet with gasoline. Any suggestions?
monitor fuel pressure leak down. It might be time for a new fuel spider
Would the spider also cause a misfire at low rpms?
Also true, there are a lot of things that can cause hard starting.
Fuel pressure is holding good.
I have a 1999 Chevy S-10 Manual. this happens every so often...sometimes it won't start, there are times when we drive it to the store, come out and dead. We checked and cleaned the battery cables terminals, battery is great. replaced the clutch switch (while transmission was being fixed) and it worked for 2 weeks, stopped again, replaced the relay in the fuse box under the hood. worked for a few weeks and stopped..to start it, you have to pop the clutch??? HELP. it's at a shop and so far it hasn't acted up to diagnose
i have a 1998 chevy tahoe 2-door LT with a vortec 350 v8 5.7L. it has been burning super rich and i know this because of the exhaust fumes. the other day i replaced the valve coover gasket and noticed the oil rinked if gas or carbon to the point it would burn your nose just from hovering over the open cover. the intake has been having a lot of carbon build up too. the last time it was worked on we had the distributer shaft assembly, dirstibuter cap, the rotory, plug wires,plugs, and an oil change. its been 2300 miles since that was done. lately the engine cranks up strong and runs great! while its cold... but you shut it down and crank it back up... it acts weak and as if its being partially flooded. the motor was replaced/or rebuilt in 07 but the spider injector is original... do you think this is my problem or could it be a sensor going out causing the wrong fuel consumption to air mass ratio? the signs of weak start up when hot and when leaving over night it starts strong but the oil smells of gas relatively strong and the amount of carbon buildup in the intake and rich exhaust fumes are leading me to think that the spider is going bad . please help !!!
my bet is the spider injector
Okay thanks ...
Hay it is the temp sensor .hi I'm phil from Goodyear temp sensor will fix all your s10 problem
Hi Phil. a friend purchased it and nothing has gone wrong so far..if it does I will let him know..thank!
Well Mr Goodyear , you are wrong . Tried that and it was a waste of money, much like taking your vehicle to Goodyear for service. My opinion of course. But anyway when I pour fuel in it fired right up and ran decentafter that with a check engine light on. Not sure what the code was yet. I'll post my results later.
I have a 2001 S10 and it sometimes has a hard time starting. It also sputters while I'm driving it and squeaks a lot, any suggestions??
get a fuel pressure test. If your oil smells like gasoline thats also a sign of a bad fuel pressure regulator. It leaks gas into the oil
What kind of squeaking, like sounds of an old chair while on a hilly road or making corners, or squeaking at an idle, or squeaking while driving and it gets faster as you go? Need details, bushings squeak, pulleys squeak, u-joints squeak, brakes squeak. Lots of things squeak
Thank you Andrew, I will do that
@John When I hit bumps and the truck slightly bounces It squeaks like something is old or rusty. It squeaks when it bounces and there is screeching as if there is something wrong with a belt but I do not see any cuts in the belt that I can visibly see
Sounds like dry rotted rubber. Could be a shock mount, control arm bushing, stabilizer bar bushings or links, less likely but still a possibility is a body mount. See if you can bounce or wiggle the vehicle by hand while it's parked and get the noise to happen. It will give you a better idea of where it's coming from.
Have a '03 s10 with the following problem: Temp. outside above 70; truck warmed up after long run: won't start unless I prime it; tried the key trick - no success; hard start in am regularly; Looking for suggestions? Thanks, A.J.
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