My 2001 S10 has a hard starting problem if the truck sits between 1 to 4 hours. It starts fine if left over night. Has 46,000 miles.
some part of your fuel injector is leaking into the manifold. Have fuel pressure tested, have a feeling it will shoot up to the desired 60 psi then fall back now quickly. Replace the spider injector.
Thanks, I'll start with the test & spider.
Rather than crank the starter over and over.Turn your key to the on position about ten times .....Turn key to on wait 4 seconds before turning back to off then repeat before engaging starter.
if it's leaking from the spider then that will make it worse. It's essentially flooding the engine already. When cold it uses the extra fuel and actually works better. But when warm it just floods it. Your oil should also smell like fuel. If so you need to do this repair soon your it could casue damage to your crank bearings
If the spider is leaking the fuel has no way of getting into the oil unless he has an intake leak so serious the car wouldn't be running at all.. The injector is inside the sealed part of the intake. Thats why the fuel pressure regulator piggy backs on the injector without a vacuum line. The entire thing is under a vacuum. The regulator could also be the culprit so test it before replacing the injector. You will have to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the injector so after removing.g the intake just hook the fuel lines back up. Andrew is definitely on the right track I just want you to make sure its positively the injector leaking before you blow $250+ on a new one.
The 4.3 has ports on the lower intake that go to the cylinders so when fuel leaks it doesnt build up pools in the intake. The most common issue is the regulator leaking fuel directly into the intake, leaking thru the relieve ports and into the cylinders. On 95 and later vortecs the fuel seeps into cylinders 2 and 4, not sure which on later vortecs. This fuel when off will leak past the piston rings and into the oil. If the regulator is leaking then when the upper intake is off there will be a clean section around where the regulator is. It is supposed to have a black soot looking build-up, clean is bad in this case.
Btw if you have the vehicle taken this far apart you might as well pull the lower intake and replace those gaskets as well. The dexcool will get you eventually better to get it before it starts leaking rather than after and end up with a huge mess. Pick up a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual. Make sure you put the good metal gaskets in.
I have the same problem on my 99 S10. I have replaced fuel pump, regulator, spider, coil and wire from coil to distributor. Any other suggestions. I also replaced the electronic part which is on the same bracket as the coil. I am not sure of its proper name.
Do a fuel pressure leakdown test. Bad parts do exist or a fuel line may have a leak.
Mechanic did pressure check on fuel pump. He says it is fine. If it was leaking down wouldn't it be more difficult to start when cold instead of warm? I'm not sure. I am not much of a mechanic, just know enough to be dangerous. :-)
Yes if it was leaking down it would start harder the longer it sat. Bob you didn't mention the fuel fiter, was it replaced?
Fairly certain that it has been, but I will make certain.
For the sake of argument, let's assume that it has. This seems to be a common problem with this engine and as of yet no one seems to have pinpointed the problem. My mechanic is stumped.
Fuel filter has been changed.
If the regulator leaks fuel it does it fast, 10 seconds or 10 hours the pressure is gone, the difference is the dumped fuel leaks into the cylinders and floods it. If it sits overnight the fuel leaks into the oil, so now it's not flooded. So if the regulator leaks it will be harder to start warm then if you let it sit and cool down overnight. Smell your oil, it shouldnt smell like much if it has no gas in it.
I had it fixed. Replaced with the updated spider assembly, new plentum, and other parts. Works great now. Andrew, half the area under the manifold was clean and shiny, not a good sign in this case.
Nope, clean is not good.
I have the same problem, but when i put gas in a spray bottle and spray down in the injector it fires right up, so its like the heated engine evaporates the fuel from the line, but thats not possible is it?
My truck has the same problem. It is an 03 s10 4.3. The spider injectors, fuel pressure regulator, and intake manifold have all been replaced recently. If I turn the truck off and start it back up within a few minutes it fires right up. If I wait for a couple hours it cranks for 4-5 seconds before starting. After sitting overnight it's a role of the dice, sometimes will start right up, sometimes it will crank before starting. I did smell the Oil cap which reeks of gasoline, but the oil has not been changed since the spider injectors/regulator were changed (4 days ago). Any suggestions on next steps? Other than change the oil of course. Thanks!
Brad have you tried priming the system before starting it to see if that helps? Could be the check ball in the fuel pump allowing pressure to bleed off. The fuel pressure regulator closes and the fuel pump has a one way check ball in it to keep the system primed while it is sitting. If the check ball in the pump is bad and letting the pressure bleed then you are staying with 0 fuel pressure creating a hard start issue. Try turning the key all the way on for 4 seconds then off, then on again for 4 seconds then try starting it. If that solves the issue and this problem doesn't happen again while doing this then you know it needs a new pump. Or just prime it every time, that's what I would do.....
I've tried to prime it on several occasions today and it does not help. If anything it actually makes it worse.
Could be the idle air control stuck in the closed loop position, pull out and clean it with some carburetor cleaner. Vacuum leak, have you checked fuel pressure while it sits? Gauge needs to be hooked up before you let it sit, could be a vacuum leak that goes away when it warms up, quite common for that to happen.
Could be a battery, the flow of electricity warms it up, it's not uncommon for a battery to allow you to crank an engine and have no juice left for the control module, it only takes about 9 volts to crank an engine but the control module needs another volt or so on top of that to operate, temperature plays a big part in a batteries available power.
A battery can hold what's called a top charge for quite some time after the engine shuts off and that top charge may be what's making it quite easy to start.
My 04 s10 will not start after sitting for a day. I have fuel, spark, and air. I am at my wits end. Recently did a tune up, replaced fuel cap, did gasket set on the plenum, replace the fuel pressure regulator, replaced the coil. If I pull out the plugs after siting for a day, they are wet with gasoline. Any suggestions?
monitor fuel pressure leak down. It might be time for a new fuel spider
Would the spider also cause a misfire at low rpms?
Also true, there are a lot of things that can cause hard starting.
Fuel pressure is holding good.
I have a 1999 Chevy S-10 Manual. this happens every so often...sometimes it won't start, there are times when we drive it to the store, come out and dead. We checked and cleaned the battery cables terminals, battery is great. replaced the clutch switch (while transmission was being fixed) and it worked for 2 weeks, stopped again, replaced the relay in the fuse box under the hood. worked for a few weeks and stopped..to start it, you have to pop the clutch??? HELP. it's at a shop and so far it hasn't acted up to diagnose
i have a 1998 chevy tahoe 2-door LT with a vortec 350 v8 5.7L. it has been burning super rich and i know this because of the exhaust fumes. the other day i replaced the valve coover gasket and noticed the oil rinked if gas or carbon to the point it would burn your nose just from hovering over the open cover. the intake has been having a lot of carbon build up too. the last time it was worked on we had the distributer shaft assembly, dirstibuter cap, the rotory, plug wires,plugs, and an oil change. its been 2300 miles since that was done. lately the engine cranks up strong and runs great! while its cold... but you shut it down and crank it back up... it acts weak and as if its being partially flooded. the motor was replaced/or rebuilt in 07 but the spider injector is original... do you think this is my problem or could it be a sensor going out causing the wrong fuel consumption to air mass ratio? the signs of weak start up when hot and when leaving over night it starts strong but the oil smells of gas relatively strong and the amount of carbon buildup in the intake and rich exhaust fumes are leading me to think that the spider is going bad . please help !!!
my bet is the spider injector
Okay thanks ...
Hay it is the temp sensor .hi I'm phil from Goodyear temp sensor will fix all your s10 problem
Hi Phil. a friend purchased it and nothing has gone wrong so far..if it does I will let him know..thank!
Well Mr Goodyear , you are wrong . Tried that and it was a waste of money, much like taking your vehicle to Goodyear for service. My opinion of course. But anyway when I pour fuel in it fired right up and ran decentafter that with a check engine light on. Not sure what the code was yet. I'll post my results later.
I have a 2001 S10 and it sometimes has a hard time starting. It also sputters while I'm driving it and squeaks a lot, any suggestions??
get a fuel pressure test. If your oil smells like gasoline thats also a sign of a bad fuel pressure regulator. It leaks gas into the oil
What kind of squeaking, like sounds of an old chair while on a hilly road or making corners, or squeaking at an idle, or squeaking while driving and it gets faster as you go? Need details, bushings squeak, pulleys squeak, u-joints squeak, brakes squeak. Lots of things squeak
Thank you Andrew, I will do that
@John When I hit bumps and the truck slightly bounces It squeaks like something is old or rusty. It squeaks when it bounces and there is screeching as if there is something wrong with a belt but I do not see any cuts in the belt that I can visibly see
Sounds like dry rotted rubber. Could be a shock mount, control arm bushing, stabilizer bar bushings or links, less likely but still a possibility is a body mount. See if you can bounce or wiggle the vehicle by hand while it's parked and get the noise to happen. It will give you a better idea of where it's coming from.
Have a '03 s10 with the following problem: Temp. outside above 70; truck warmed up after long run: won't start unless I prime it; tried the key trick - no success; hard start in am regularly; Looking for suggestions? Thanks, A.J.
I have a 98 gmc 2.2l it has gas leaking in my num 2 cylinder what could this be from
and injector is stuck open
I have a question. I opened my radiator and found the water full of rust. A friend told me there should be a drain plug underneath but we could not find it, then he proceeds to tell me it should be fine wtf?? Does any one know where it is or how I can find the info..I have been googling it all morning.
what i do to my 2003 blazer just turn the key on THE START POSTION i hear the motor .TURN IT TO THE OFF POSITION.. WAIT FOR 5-10 SECONDS AND THEN IT TURNS ON .
I just want to confirm what most are trending on here about the spider injector(s). I was a used car dealer that dealt primarily in GM/Chev vehicles and had to replace spider injectors all the time - this was approx. 2000-2002. I knew a service tech very well at a Chev dealership and he told me about a campaign (not a recall) that was announced. If you had spider injector repair/service done at a Genuine GM dealer, GM would reimburse around $300 with receipt. I got checks totaling about $5,000 from GM. So, YES that injector is problematic and likely that cause of your idle control and start problems.
My fuel gauge seems to not be working. anyone know what this could be?? Thanks
I have a 95 4.3 vortex when cold trying to crank want hold its idol when it hot idol good. Also when u try to drive it like give it gas the engine bars down if gas press all the way to the floor it bars down at first but catch right up and runs but not clear I think it's in the fuel need help
When was the last time you did a tuneup on that s10?
about a month ago John
What was replaced with that tuneup.
2000 S10 2.2l new spark plugs and wires, IAC, MAP, FPR, injectors, CTS, coils, ECU (with current software) ICM, thermostat and crank sensor. Starts up in half second when cold, wouldn't start unless I have my foot to the floor when warm. Cycled key on and off trick didn't work. 44 fuel pressure running, turn key off, then drops to 36, then 10 minutes later, slowly drops to 31. One car Guru said to try changing out the fuel pump, but he wasn't 100% convinced that would help.
What does fuel pressure do when you first turn the key on? You check for vacuum leaks? You check for carbon build-up? Holding your foot all the way to the floor while starting is clear flood mode so either your getting to much fuel or not enough air.
I had everything replaced John
Princesspri it's most likely your fuel sending unit.
Hey guys! I have a 04 s10 4.3 and OMG I've replaced my spark plugs, plug wires, fuel pump and it's still not wanting to crank up right. Like others have previously said if you start it within a few hours it's fine but if it sits over night.. good luck. It's at a mechanic's right now and he doesn't see any leaks but said my fuel pump has low air pressure... what should be do?!
fuel filter.. not pump. ^^
John could you tell me about the fuel sending unit?? Is there a thread here on it with more information that you know of??
Akules, fuel filters don't have air pressure, they have fuel pressure. Princesspri fuel sending unit is inside the gas tank, the fuel pump is part of it, it has a big float on it that floats on the gas and a resistor on the rod with the float. Float goes up, rod goes up, resistance changes and is fed into the gas gauge. to change it you can remove the bed from the frame, OR drop the tank OR cut a hole in the bed to replace it. Me personally,I would fill the tank up, drive about a hundred miles, fill the tank up again and see how much gas you burn. If you add 4 gallons that means you got 100 miles to 4 gallons or 100/4=25 mpg. Use your trip odometer to calculate the number of miles. Every time you fill up rest your trip odometer, you should be able to get at the very least 200 miles to a tank. If you have an 18 gallon tank and get 22 mpg which it should be getting roughly, you could easily get 350 miles between fill-ups. You need to find out your tank size and your mpg.. tank size multiplied by mpg gives you about 40 miles more than I would run between gas stops. Just remember to either reset your trip odometer or write your current mileage on your receipt and hold onto it.
Way cool, thank a lot John!!
On my 98 gmc 2.2 liter I have gas coming out my number 2 plug when I turn my key on but I can move that injector wire and the gas will move with it someone told me it could be my computer box please any good answers
Unplug the injector see if it still leaks.... if yes then replace the injector. If not then have your icm tested.
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