why the air condition system compressor getting damaged frequently for my cheve 2005 ls?pls advise its the second time i changed the compressor
Are you sure it's the compressor that's failing and your not loosing refridgerant from a leak? If no leak, check the belt tensioner and alignment your belt. Did you buy a rebuilt or new compressor?
If you take your car to a A/C service place, They draw a vacuum and check for leaks. If it checks out, they refill the system. This should have been done after the compressor has been replaced to evacuate the air.
That's what they are supposed to do and put a little oil in there to lube comp. Whoever did it last time must have flubbed the job and maybe even knew it, but sent you down the road Anyway. If it was done professionaly It should have lasted way longer. Try To go back and at minimal get a discount.
You could have just been unlucky & got a defective compressor. I work at NAPA & can safely say this does happen from time to time. Your mechanic must flush the A/C system, leak test the A/C system, replace the accumulator or receiver/ dryer, replace the orifice tube, then recharge the A/C system in order to do a compressor job correctly & not void the new compressor's warranty. HTH. -Jim
It's put under a vacuum to boil out any moisture because when water molecules touch refrigerant the water turns to ice and clogs the orifice/ txv, the vacuum has minimal to do with air.
So John, what about the question at hand? What's your professional opinion?
Defective compressor or as Jim said it wasn't installed properly, or as tom said it may have been a leak from the beginning misdiagnosed as a bad compressor and the leak never got fixed so the system is empty again. The answer has already been postedi was only imputing on the reason for vacuuming the system. The air gets pulled out completely within 5 seconds of the vacuum being applied. A vacuum needs to be applied for at least 15 minutes to boil and suck out the water molecules. Unboiled water molecules will also give a false leak reading under a vacuum. A few typos in there but the mobile page of cargirus won't let me fix them, there inputting was spelt wrong and spaces were missed.
And Mooney you are correct. There is a shop back in my hometown that intentionally messes stuff up and sends people on their way with more issues than when hey came in...
One has to hook up your gages an know how to read your pressures.Reading these suggestions make me realize you guys have not got a clue what your doing.The blind leading the blind.This Chevy Aveo car has a history of a bad OEM a/c compressors.In most cases the compressor an blower turns on but the low side pressure reads 90 lbs. An high side normal 200 lbs depending on ambient air temperature..Low should be at 35 lbs.This problem is the compressor suction side failure.You will find this a/c blows warm air with plenty of 134a in the system.
If low side is 90 psi then the high should only be around 100 or 110 at the most. 90 and 200 means the system is way over charged and the high pressure switch isn't cutting off at 150 like it should be. Optimal pressure when the compressor shuts off should be high side hitting at or around it's max of 150 and the low being around its minimum of around 30. Either the high side will shut the compressor or the low side will shut the compressor off if the high side isn't close to 150 (45) before it shuts off then the system is over charged. When the compressor shuts off, the high side should be above 140 and the low should be below 40. 200 psi will start blowing o rings, much past that and tig welds on the evaporator or condenser will start popping. That is a sign of a failed high pressure switch and an idiot with a can of refrigerant. The closer you can get both those numbers to their switch limits the more efficiently it will cool. Over charged and under charged will have the exact same symptoms.
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