Check Engine Light
Plugs wires coil pack
I have the EXACT same problem with my 2002 Accent. It is a real mystery. The problem started about three years ago (maybe more) 1) The first thing I did was change the plugs and wires and the car ran great - for about a week. So then I changed the thermostat. No help at all (But then I didn't think it would work). 2) A mechanic near work said it was the catalytic converter, so I brought it to my regular mechanic and he said it couldn't be that - it had to be the coil pack. Changed that and the plugs (expensive) ran GREAT for about a month. Then the problem came back! 3) So I brought it to my girlfriend's mechanic. He said it was the coil pack. I explained that I'd done that already, so he changed the oxygen sensor, and the plugs again (expensive) Ran great for about three months, then the problem came back again. 4) He looked at it again and found a hole in my exhaust manifold. Fixed that (expensive) changed the plugs AGAIN and it ran great for about six months. Then it came back again! 5) Brought it to a diagnostic "specialist" some kid fresh out of a training seminar on how to read test equipment. He runs a diagnostic and told me it was the spark pack, (sorry done that) then it must be the oxygen sensor (nope done that too) well then its the catalytic converter (sorry catalytic converters don't get better when you change the oxygen sensor or spark pack) At this point he starts giving me a hard time about how if I don't agree to let him fix these things there's no way he can move on to what the next possible problem might be! So I say... well PRETEND you've already fixed them.. what's next? And he says... the thermostat! 6) O.K. I don't agree to let them do any of this (obviously) but I still have to pay for the diagnostic! So I go home and change the thermostat again! (After all, its an $18 part and half an hour with a socket wrench. Well, maybe he's right??? NOPE! 7) So I cough and sputter to work the next day, and on the way home I break down. First the sputtering gets really bad. Then the lights dim. I shut off the fan and the car runs better. Then worse. I shut off the radio and it gets better again, then worse. I shut off the lights and it smoothes right out... for about 10 seconds, then it all goes south, and the car won't go more than 5 miles an hour! 8) I get towed to my original mechanic who replaces the alternator and tensioner, oh and the spark plugs (yes again!) And now its running great. Until last week when it started sputtering all over again! So now I'm thinking of going straight to changing the spark plugs. It's the only common denominator I see, Anyone else going through this? JohnD
Check your oxygen sensor, I had a 2002 Accent and they have 2 oxygen sensors.
Replace the oxygen sensor this should fix the problem.
Well, my check engine light came on they put it on the computer and told me I wasn't putting the gas cap on right or my gas cap was bad. Now my car has started sputtering like when I down shift, like I didn't down shift far enough and when you start giving it gas it sputters and the check engine light blinks. I work with Big truck mechanics and they told me I needed to gave my fuel or gas filter changed. So, I carried it to have that done. They tell me I don't have a fuel filter. So, I came back to work and told the mechanics what they told me. He says some cars are made with the fuel filter inside the gas tank. To fix or replace you have to drop the gas tank to get to it. Any Advice... They told me to get some C Foam at an auto parts store and pour it in on a full tank of gas and that might help. I haven't tried that yet they just told me today. I was wondering if anyone had tried that?
If the check engine light is flashing you shouldnt drive car. Could cause serious damage to your engine. Do you still have the code that it gave you 2 weeks ago? Sounds like you possiblely have a bad miss fire. Check plug wires, coil pack and see if everything is connected.
You wouldnt have to replace both of oxygen sensor's cause only the upsteam o2 sensor deals with fuel calculations. The down steam o2 sensor is for catalyst effeciency.
The 'Flashing light' is more of a warning that catalytic converter failure will be the result of the problem currently happening - excess fuel getting dumped into it will cause it to overheat and damage the converter substrate. Flashing light is a skipping cylinder and will produce a p0300-304 code
Turned the error code from the engine cpu indicated the MAP Sensor was defective. Ordered the part from the web and fitted it. Problem solved.
Sounds like you had multiple problems from the start. If you posted the diagnostic information obtained from the computer I think you would have had numerous codes which would be confusing to diagnose. This happens especially when a check engine light has been on for an extended period of time and not checked. When I see numerous codes I inform my customer that I am going to repair the most important ( The ones that come back immediately ( Hard Codes ) ) and clear all the rest. If another one pops back then we will address it at that time. If it was a MAP sensor - it would have been an active code with outputs out of specifications amd mode 6 information borderline bad. Basically easy to diagnose. Its tough to diagnose with words. Good Luck - I hope you are fixed for the LONG term
Just an update. I put on a new gas cap and they reset the computer and cleared the check engine light. On the first tank of gas the check engine light came back on before I could get home that day. The Mechanics at work told me to get some Sea Foam at the auto part store and add it to the gas the next time I fueled up, so I put 1/2 can with about 9 gallons of gas. My car has been running better. I would say that stuff helped my car 95%. But I will let the guys know what you all have suggested and we'll go from there...
Thats why i told him not to drive the car, and said its probualy bad misfire/dead cylinder. I know what it means...
2006 hyundia accent check engine light is flashing on my car too so what are the po300 po302 and po304 what came up on it can u help buccaneerz89 i dont wont to pay 83 $ apece for coil is it some thing else with the car
Haynes 43015, 1996 & later: P0300 - Random Misfire detected p0302 - Misfire detected in cylinder 2 p0304 - " cylinder 4
I have had an issue with my Accent since year 2 (I've had it for 6 years). I smokes up when I start it, it sputters ALL THE TIME, and I have to put oil in this thing every week. I have that warrenty on it, but the last time I took it in to be fixed, they said it wasn't covered (the engine isn't covered... REALLY??!!) $867.00 later, it still does the same ol' stuff. :( Any ideas? Also, any ideas on the warrenty? I would think it's covered....
The reason I looked at this post is because I have a 2008 Accent and it has the check engine light come on several times, the service manger at the dealership told me that they needed to reset the computer. It was fine for awhile, then it did it again. By the third time I took it in and they replaced something like rails? Did not really know what it was. Car was fine for a long time. Driving on the interstate this afternoon and the check engine light came on and went off just as quickly, the engine revved up, scared the heck out of me. It has never done it like that before. The service manager says that if it does not go out or flashes to pull over to not do damage to the engine. I HATE car problems!
f@#K... just had baby just sunk 4000 into this car not mention the 2000 to buy the car and 500 in body work to get on the road.... now 5 days after purchase engine light is on for good.. no problem still zippy lil car and working perfect until 4 months very minimal back and forth driving notlong distances overall ... now sputtters and almost dies around turn take about40 seconds just to get up to 35km/h ....... scary when trying to get thru round abouts and to hospital to see my son i went dealerships one said misfirebegged em to hook up to comuter main guy comes out asks whos hyundia out fronnt i say mie he said move it now ... and had to leave appearntly a chev dealership cant even help a person out like sorry ur the closest auto shop figured have up to date mechanics and equipment that could multi read different models as most b and c gradde shops would have a reader that could identify atleast problem maybe not fix but atleast an idea .. ,,other said coil other said try this sh*t in ur gas tank .. none could hook a computer up before my time was due back at hospitalso had pur sh*t in gas tank and hope for best no my baby momma is drivin to hospital so i can try get some answers as we do not have really another 1000 for this car engine light constantly constantly FLASHING REPEDEATITIVLY !! sorry misspellling so upset worried n no answers elsewere!! AHHH i cant afford all this we just had kid worsdt possible time for car to go kaputs.....and b stranded and not able to get there every few hours ..such complicated stiutaton i wanna cry ....
Have a 2013 Hyundai, a BRAND NEW 2013! Same type issues. When you fill it it over flows eveywhere, check engine light has gone off multiple time. Monday (because NO Hyundai dealer in Texas works on their cars on the weekend) we will be taking it in for the 3rd time in less than a month. Not why I bought a new new car! Good bye POS Hyundai, it's worth the few extra bucks for the Honda (or Toyota) piece of mind. Hyundai had one attempt to make a believer out of me and the product and service suck! Fool me once, shame on you.... and you won't get a second chance!
my buddy has a 2000 accent, flashing light and its sputtering and all that good stuff ( 20 mph max!). his battery was bad and the battery end ( what u connect the battery with) was cracked and did not stay tight enough to make a connection. so today while he was at work i took some time to pick up new ends for him and a battery and put it in, took it for a drive and its about 75% better then what it was but its still flashing the check engine light, and sputters when u take off, but it runs now, i did notice that his motor mounts are bad, which will torque the motor and will not be properly connected to the transmission. so after he gets those done i wont be able to tell if thats the problemm or not. im thinking about telling him not to bother because its a old car ( only 55k and this many problems. my 95 f150 has 400k and runs stonger then anything else on i ever owned) the next thing i will replace for him are fuel injectors, since its sputtering its almost like its either over fueling the motor, or not enough, the gas filter should be okay because it wouldnt sputter.. 1) fuel pump 2)Fuel injectors 3) spark plugs and wires 4) distributor cap 5) collapsed cylinder 6) motor mounts if all that fails. its the controller ( computer ) which is a redic amount to spend, i figured i would share the list that i am performing on his car for anyone else who has this problem and would like an idea, take it to a shop and ask them to inspect those items. go with the cheaper ones first, because if u can fix it by spending 40 bucks for fuel injectors u saved yourself 400 from a collapsed cylinder. but all honesty. GO WITH FORD. DODGE. HONDA, TOYOTA, OR NISSAN!! Or mecerdez or bmw or lexus etc lol. good luck on your vehicles, if i find the problem with his i will repost the diagonosis of his car on here. have a good day and good luck yall
I have a 2006 Hyundai Accent and my car has been sputtering and the check engine light has been flashing after a month or so of having the coils changed out on it a total of three times. It just happend again this morning and i dont understand. Coils are not cheap and they should not be going bad that fast. Does anyone have any ideas as to what else it could be or any other solutions?
I have been chasing a problem caused by over oiling a K&N air filter but I have discovered a few things I'd like to share. When the car burns oil from worn rings or leaking valve seals it fowls the spark plugs and the check eng. light will come on ,the oil will also foul both oxygen sensors upstream and down stream if they are chalky white replace them. Iif a coil pack is eroded or a wire boot is cracked at the coil pack it will short to the outside of the coil and cause a misfire then the light will flash. very few after market mass air flow sensors will work well in extreme hot or cold they will often go out of spec and fail causing the car to run lean and the light will come on. Never shoot a throttle body or fule injector cleaner through the air box or before the mass air flow senser as the cleaner will leave a residue that will affect resistance and cause the dreaded light to come on and you will kill the sensor . My 2002 Accent 1.5 has been a good car for the money but all this computer crap has me missing my 3 favorite motors Chevy 235, GM 292 and Ford 300 inline 6 es are the most dependable motors ever built,they just fire up and do there job year after year.
I have a 2009 accent with the same problem I have taken it to the shop 6 times they kept pulling up codes I replaced fuel injector fuel canister and like 3 more things. I was told on accents after a few years the gas cap SEAL goes bad and the engine light comes on take it to autozone and get it checked out ive been driving with it on for 3 months now it drives fine im pretty sure its the gas cap seal
Hi, I have a problem with my Hyundai sonata 1996 model. Its just revving to high. Tried to adjust mixture screw all the way in and still revving high. Tried to adjust throttle positioning switch and still revving to high. Any suggestions??
2008 Hyundai accent 1.6 installed all speed sensors and check engine light comes back on
Unplug the mass air flow could help too ^^ Put something on the hole to dont put dirt in it ( electric tape ) unplug the negative for 30 sec , than make a little road test ;)
Interesting stuff. 2011 Hyundai Accent. Same problem, about two months ago check engine light comes on and I lost a lot of power, sputtering, etc. Did the gas cap thing right away (just tightened, not replaced) and it worked fine right away. Now it started sputtering again today, check engine light on again. Bought a new gas cap, worked for 10 min...no good now...could it be the opening itself is faulty somehow? Maybe the filter goes after this problem carries on for a bit? What the hell?
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