engine no power weak

juneo06
0

Asked by juneo06 Feb 01, 2010 at 01:27 AM about the Kia Sedona

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

i replaced tps already but when you press the gas pedal engine just droped down the power  will not accelerate

19 Answers

Mike Bonnell
8,355

A locked catalytic converter will cause this - Take a back pressure test to verify Take a fuel pressure test verify you have the proper volume and pressure to run the engine properly Good Luck

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
fixitman4
50

i have same problem on my 2003 Sedona but what does it mean to have a locked Cat ad what is the remedy. Mine is in the shop and I want to be prepared for surprises. My mechanic changed the spark plug and plenum gasget as routine maintainence after 100,000 miles . Car ran great than developed a whistle and sounded like air was escaping and majr loss of power on acceleation. Code said cylender five was not firing so changed the coil. no more whistle but power loss continued. he thought it migh have something to do with Cat but did not have the diagnostic tools to check it. Any help ould be appreciated as car as been good up to now.

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.
Lofty77
30

Air Mass Meter i had the same thing happen and if it wasnt for a friend who put it on his computor i would have never known, also it cures problem,s in winter

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
Gary John
415

This sounds helpful, although my scantool did not see anything really out of whack, i'm gonna replace this with a known good one before i buy one. I'll let you know if this works.

Gary John
415

I should have mentioned this previously , but i also have a 99 kia van same engine same problem. 3.5 ltr. v6

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
Gary John
415

catalytic converter is not locked or plugged, Air flow meter is good, tps is good. I still have the same problem. It won,t accelerate past 70kms, the more i give it gas , the less power i have. shift points are long and slow and an intermittent misfire on cylinder 4. Probably from flooring it. Tuned it up, plugs,filters, and upper plenum gasket.( part of spark plug change as it is neccesary to remove the plenum to get at plugs in rear of engine. I even recorded live data from the engine and waveforms are all actually good. eg. Sensor values during drivecycle. Only thing i haven,t checked yet is fuel pressure. waiting for a fuel pressure guage. PSI should be about 40-45 at idle.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Christopher Taza
1,565

Those 3.5L sometimes have the PCM fail and sticks the ground for the coil, which ends up burning up the IFS (ignition failure sensor) and coils.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Gary John
415

no problems with any coils, the pcm hasn,t returned any faults with my scantool. Can a transmission sensor cause this lack of acceleration and or power?

6 out of 6 people think this is helpful.
Christopher Taza
1,565

What was fuel pressure at the rail? pull the vaccuum line off the regulator pressure should jump up. I've seen bad gas rust out the fuel tank and the metal then clog out the fuel filter. Van would run great till about 30 mph and then would fall flat on it's face.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Gary John
415

Eureka!! Found the problem with my 2002 kia sedona 3.5 , no power, idles great. no codes. (Timingbelt had jumped ONE TOOTH)_ caused this headache. Cams were still aligned but the crank was retarded one tooth. Not sure why the computer didn,t pick this up as chryslers do. All is well. any DIY'ers Make sure you apply 50lbs torque to the timing belt before With your pulley, then you release the tensioner. Failure to do this will kill your engine as the belt will fail and valves will impact on the pistons. FIY christopher the fuel was at an adequate flow. no gauge to check it properly but i released some fuel under pressure and got a good shot of gas. seemed pretty good to me anyway. Hope this helps. it did me.

11 out of 11 people think this is helpful.
Gary John
415

I just posted a comment on timing belt here somewhere. have you checked your timing carefully?

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
krempep
20

Setting the timing is pretty straight forward and there are a number of videos and repair sites that explain the technical methods. However, there are tricks for the DIY's. Line up the timing mark on the crankshaft, set the belt and brace it from the bottom with a piece of Styrofoam or cardboard. Wrap the belt around the upper bearing and front outer cam, adjust the timing marks and pull belt tight continue on to the 2nd front cam, hold this in place with a clip or clothes pin. The belt goes down around the water pump and up the rear cam. Using a 17mm wrench, turn the cam to the timing mark, wrap the belt and tightly to the timing mark, holding both the belt and cam in place. (It helps if you can get a helper). Next, do the same with the far rear cam, align it to the timing mark and wrap the belt around it. Pull the belt from the bottom to hold the cams and belt in place. Place a clip or clamp on the bottom of the back cam with belt to hold it in place. Release the belt and cam and check your timing marks, it should hold itself. Next, wrap the belt around the bottom adjustment bearing. Adjust the bearing with a needle nose pliers and a 14mm socket, rotate the adjuster with the pliers to tighten the belt, hold it tightly while tightening the center bolt. Belt and bolt should be snug, repeat if necessary. Install the auto adjuster (pin in) beneath the adjustment bearing. Remove the clips from the cams. Next, rotate the crankshaft a couple of turns to insure the cams and pistons don't interfere with each other. Rotate the crankshaft to its timing mark and recheck the timing mark on each of the cams. If everything looks in order, pull the pin on the auto adjuster, remove the styro, put the lower cover on and the harmonic balancer, inside, outside belts and everything else back together. I've done this by myself about a half dozen times. It gets easier each time. Special Note: If you find that your engine is not running right, recheck your timing. I had one situation that despite my best effort, the engine stayed out of time. After looking at the timing mark pictures on the KiaTechInfo site, I noticed that the back sensing blade behind the crank sprocket had slipped and did not match up correctly. I had to pry the sprocket and sensing blade off the shaft, then realign and secure them together or replace them.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
krempep
20

Note: Catalytic converters don't go bad nearly as often as engine timing and sensors. I thought I had a cat problem but good timing cleared that up.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Victor Cruz
20

I got a 05 kia sedona and the problem is the burns my ignition coils I replece all 3 and is burns the new ones too sorry for my spell

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
kiag
0

I was that heat don't burn gas ⛽ but in your review say it burn gas ⛽ faster and could make your ac system must up can you give me feedback on this

kiag
0

I have a 02 Kia sedon i was that heat don't burn gas ⛽ but in your review say it burn gas ⛽ faster and could make your ac system must up can you give me feedback on this

kiag
0

I have a 02 Kia Sedona i was that heat don't burn gas ⛽ but in your review say it burn gas ⛽ faster and could make your ac system must up can you give me feedback on this

kiag
0

You right kiag it do burn gas ⛽ faster then ever

hopsob317
0

It seems that I am in company of many. My 02 Sedona 200k lost power a few month ago. Gets up to 3000 rpm and then bucks and loses power, does not shift higher etc. So I needed to stay under 3k to drive. The only code I got was # 3 cylinder does not fire. The coils fired strong. After changing the plugs and injectors it switched to #4 not firing. Then I changed the timing belt, the CPS (crank shaft position sensor), and the IFS. No change! There was nothing wrong with the timing or the belt but I had bought the T-belt in summer going with the milage getting ready for the 200k miles. Now I checked if the cats may be blocked and found them clear. What I have left is the camshaft position sensor, air flow sensor, and the ECM. (What a pain with the bank 1 cat - three screws are from the top and no way to get to them unless one disassembles the top. The engineers should be ordered to deal with such designs in a shop with a 200k vehicle.) Here are my questions. Can the ECM be remapped, or cleared and rebooted, what is the best procedure, or if that is not promising can the ECM be replaced just by the numbers on ECM? Some former cars I had the ECM had to be pre-programmed according the car specs. I would have at least by now driven the car into a junk yard, if I would not have relaced new tires, brakes, ball joints, AC compressor and high pressure hose before the loss of power. I did did all this because the van had given me many years best service. So if someone has advise please wright it here I would be very greatful.

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