no power 2007 yukon xl denali

Electrical power or is it not got pulling power

no electrical power, fuseable link has conductivity

Get the codes read. There may some pending codes that will let you know what system is failing.

wife's car... She indicated occaisional no power but would work after a few seconds. yesterday would not start at all. did a jump started no problem. ran for 30 min or so... a few starts and stops seemeed ok but week on the starts. decided to replace original equipment battery with new... now no power at all, problem is hard....not intermitant with new battery. RnR new with another known good same, no power...

tenspeed, stupid question but...can codes be read with no power?

the codes are stored in a flash memory module which will not forget when power is removed, if this is your question, sir.

Have u checked the fuses user the hood

btw, we have it serviced regularly by GMC dealer. no codes recently. just had airbags and compressor replaced a month ago. no other codes in system...

yes all fuses in the under hood fuse box seem to be ok, verified with multimeter. can't test the same for relays... is there one relay or other which could cause a no power condition? looks like the upper fuse box can be disengaged from the lower box. can it be removed and check wiring harness or other?

bob, thanks. so the code reader (OBD II or III) will supply power requied to read the codes out of flash...?

The voltage regulator that's built in to the alternator may have burned up try testing it advance sells a tester FOR 13.00 plus tax it will let u know if u r getting enough juice back. I'm pretty sure this will fix it

Fergie, Thanks, Would Napa have it as well... what is the voltage regulator tester called?

If you've done it already, and these found no problems with the operation of various MAF, MAP, EGR, O2 and other delights, we'll have to get old school now-

When you say intermittent power, you mean engine power, not electrical power, correct?

Test the voltage with a multimeter, battery should be at 13.5 volts and will increase when the alternator is sending regulated power to the battery to the tune of 14-15 Volts up to 30 amps-

It's a charging system tester I bought mine at advance so don't really know about Napa. Have u checked the wire harness under the steering column since the airbags was replaced if not check ur connecters just to be on the safe side

the GUTS, or bravado this vehicle is supposed to have has gone out the window, to where just keepin' it runnin' is kinda a problem. is this where we stand?

I have read elsewhere possible fix to the negative battery cable.... could it really be? conductivity seem good from the battery calbe down to the grounds... Bob have not done this yet If you've done it already, and these found no problems with the operation of various MAF, MAP, EGR, O2 and other delights,.... dealer indicated no other codes a month ago.... can not say for certain it holds true today.... though my dealer is pretty good about advising all codes found... minor or not....

It's a multimeter they are about 20 bucks for a cheapie- you can test ohms and amps voltages AC and DC-

bob, I do not think so... this one has been very reliable. no real issues beyond air bags, compressor, and had a problem with the TPMS sensors dealer fixed... not the tx in the valve stem.. problem was one of the reciever....

is the exhaust okay? I mean is it a whitish gray, or BLACK or blue and tainted with oil?

There are still several key components that aren't monitored even on new vehicles

probably the last four cases I've helped have asked the following: hose off the battery terminals, negative and positive, scrub the terminals and connectors free of any corrosion including that lolipop w/a hole on the positive side, on the negative side assure solid connection to frame and to engine, it is in this way that the computer will not experience a 'brown out' and start makin' bad decisions~

we put too much power in the hands of our robots. We never had THESE kinds of problems with our Hudson Hornet!

Fergie, it was the rear airbags for suspension system vs shocks/struts.... Bob, this is electrical.... I have a multimeter..battery power does not seem to be getting distributed. have conductivity on both sides of the fuseable link. will check actual voltage drop tomorrow.

Or Ford couriers

Napa auto parts (nationwide) will have a version of the obd2+3 reader for sale, multimeters both analog and digital...they'll fix you up there with all the best chinese manufactured goods.

Ok let us know how it goes

How many miles are on this 2007?

Not Mazda it's still a Ford it just turned Japanese.

So intermittent power pertains to electrical power. interesting. that's a new wrinkle. hosin' 'er down WILL fix you, your airbag and other codes were reset by the GM guy, so there will not be any. Any check engine lights at all? sid?

I keep everything clean...inc.. terminals on all my cars. ... '96 honda civic, '99 Expedition, '00 MB E 320 (recently sold double Blue Book) '07 Yukon XL Denali, '12 MB E 350.... this is regular qtr maintenance for me... no corrosion..... had an old opel cadet when I was young where corrosion caused an electrical nightmare.... exhaust is normal... can only see it as faint white vapor when very cold in the morning

Nothing heating up.... No check engine lights, no error codes being sent to the console before loss of electrical. acting like an open somewhere.... Had a 1982 mazda b2000 sport.... ran great.....

Definitely check the alternator

Nearly 150K miles on the Yukon, 165k on the Expedition, 230K on the civic, 175K on '00 MB when sold...

Old battery tested good when I brought it in to Auto Zone nearest open parts place... but it was the factory original..... Yeah Napa sells chinese part but don't they all now...

yeah, I know was just being snyde reflecting on the former glory that used to be America, now when I walk into True Value NOT ONE item is made in america...not even the snap-ons...drat. The proper Ground solution IS the solution as it only takes a couple of days for acid to weep out of your battery onto the surrounding electrics and create a 'brown out' condition where the 'lectronics cannot grab the necessary amperage to finish the job, in this case not enough to give you a strong spark! this has to have been one of the strangest scenearios I've dealt with in my 6 month time as a carguru-

sidbrooks, and fergie43726 (guess that's your zip), it has been a pleasure serving you as much as I could possibly figure out whatinahell was the problem, now that I know A problem, am scratching my head yet. Do try to assure amps can get thru your connections to the chassis and to the engine---that's all the beans I can spill today, tomorrow with a fresh cup of coffee might be able to meditate and solve your dilemma-

A brownout would not seemingly cause a no power condition even for the lights and bells, chimes... I have nada for power... a bad alternator voltage regulator would seem to affect the charging or drain of the battery... but hey I am not a mechanic.... and I do not have the schematics to chase down the electrical circuits... I will provide the drain #'s thru the alternator tomorrow.. Good night to all...

A brownout would not seemingly cause a no power condition even for the lights and bells, chimes... I have nada for power... a bad alternator voltage regulator would seem to affect the charging or drain of the battery... but hey I am not a mechanic.... and I do not have the schematics to chase down the electrical circuits... I will provide the drain #'s thru the alternator tomorrow.. Good night to all...

A brownout would not seemingly cause a no power condition even for the lights and bells, chimes... I have nada for power... a bad alternator voltage regulator would seem to affect the charging or drain of the battery... but hey I am not a mechanic.... and I do not have the schematics to chase down the electrical circuits... I will provide the drain #'s thru the alternator tomorrow.. Good night to all...

if you mark helpful or best answer for 20, I'm going to be the GURU number 8 just need 165 positive reputation points...then again, probably don't want to be stuck doin' this forever~

Going WAY back up.. 1) sidbrooks there are no stupid questions. Only inadequate ones (NOT YOU) like when somebody posta a question "my car won't start" and does not even give the make year nothing.. But, again, going WAY back up, the codes can be scanned with no power . None at all. the information is stored in a device very much like a USB flash drive and the code scanner supplies it's own power

yes...the brownout. This is caused when the semi-conductors make their decisions on little data, aka 'jumpin' the gun' or wackybrain which can happen, if we're lucky the ECU quits altogether and won't attempt to provide service to your engine- Solid connections under which many amps can be comfrotably drawn, think of your electric 220 dryer and the size of the wires needed to draw amps then think of this dime sized lolipop that we put our very automotive existance on~

inexpensive scan tool~

Replace your "negative" battery cable (about $65). I have a 2007 yukon xl denali doing the same thing. The problem is where the cable goes into the lead at the battery post becomes loose and allows it to lose connection.

Thanks...In my case it was the large inline fusible link on the firewall. readings were good in place when I removed the fusible link and made a temp by pass all worked normal. I checked the fusible link out of circuit and it was bad. Must have been a small crack in the fusible link element. Replaced the fusible link with a new one... Has been good since.

We are experiencing a similar thing with our 2010 yukon xl. Every now and then it just won't start. A few times it would start back up but then a number of times nothing. Have to tow it to the dealership and they cannot figure it out. They mentioned the negative battery cable but can't be sure and don't want to have us do a $400 repair for nothing. I think we are going to have to trade the vehicle in because since its unknown we can't take the chance getting caught in the snow or something. Did you ever find a solution to yours?

Yes. We had the fuse box replaced. After going through many replacements parts and repairs we narrowed it down to the fuse box.