Hi. My 95 Camaro won't start. The engine turns, up to the point where it seems it will start, but it doesn't complete it...even with the power (charging, jump start) station attached. Help pls; thanks

the fuel pump relay and ignition relay are pesky little fellows...see if I can put a claw on those`

http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product_info.php/products_id/319685/fit_id/82 70/Year/1995/Make/Chevrolet/Model/Camaro/source/googleps?gclid=CN- e596ywroCFejm7Aod1k0ArQ

okay, we found it~ http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190930181519?lpid=82

Thank you for your answers. I will look into that. Follow up question: I unplugged the power station and attempted to start the engine, it no longer turned and power seemed to be draining. But, please consider these: last week, when I tried to start a few times, nothing could be heard. After four tries, with a minute's rest, it started like nothing's wrong. I had the same scenario two weeks prior to last week, but this time, nothing seem to have worked.

well you've been presented with two relays....one or both have become unreliable....could be due to a dodgy 1/0 black cable....which if left by itself will create a barrier of "semi-conductor" by itself...wirebrush the lug and chassis to restore the full 12.5 volts~

What is the condition of the battery? That may be a possible factor if it has been a long time..

@urtrapped: I just had it (Interstate battery) tested, and I was told that it has less than a fourth (charge? power?) left and that it's at least 5 years old. @judge_roy: Thank you. I haven't had the chance to look into the relays as it's dark. However, with this new info on the car battery's condition, what would you suggest I take care of first?

ignition relay is worth a try. starter solenoid too.

me pop is the VP of Engineering at Interstate Mr. N.M. Qureshi...he informs me that LEAD is no longer used for car batteries...Tin/Antimony alloy is a good replacement but degrades (stops takin' a charge ten percent per year) so if your battery is five it will only accept half it's potential charge...so yes 10-4 on your battery replacement~

The optispark would be the second thing I would check after cleaning the battery post. Be sure all your connections are good from the optispark and plug wires are in good shape. I would take each spark plug out, one at a time and ark the plug against the manifold. Then if you don't get a spark on each one replace the opti with on OEM opti. $545. Summit Racing had on OEM for $350 not long ago. I lost count on how many I have replaced. They tend to act up when there hot. Electricity doesn't like heat.

I had a 94 Camaro 3.4 (which already had the VATS bypassed) which had a bad ignition switch that had a open circuit spot right between the run position and crank position which supplies the pink wire to the ignition fuse #5 in the fuse box that goes to the ECM. The condition was a repeated long crank hard start/no start.If you jump and hold a B+ supply to ignition fuse #5 in the key on position through the crank position and the car starts up fine , pretty confident a new ignition switch should address the problem. If turning key very slowly the scantool Battery voltage pid will suddenly drop from 12v to zero and if held in that position scan tool may even loose communication with PCM,then as you proceed to crank position security light may come on again then go out and engine start cranking over ,sound like it started but stall as key is returned to run position ,security light comes back on then goes back out and fuel pump hums for 2 seconds and shuts off. Sometimes if you hold the gas pedal down you get rev it and it and it will start and run fine or run on half the cylinders!

Just like to know if it is just the ignition relay, changed all the spark plugs the distributor wires and the coils, and put in a new battery!