truck wont stay running
I have a 2001 dodge 1500 pickup. The truck fires right up but will not stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. As soon as I let off the throttle it dies instantly without sputtering. Gauges read fine and it does it even after it has warmed up. Before I tear into it, I was hoping somebody would have some simple solutions to check first. Thanks.
its not the battery if the truck is starting, once the truck is running you can pop the battery out and drive around all day with just the alternator (say its bullshit and ill make a video for you) when you let off the gas if the oil pressure goes down power gets cut to your fuel pump ( atleast thats what my 96 did before i got a new oil pump in it) so watch your oil pressure gauge when you let off the gas. you could have a bad TPS sensor ( it wont always throw a check engine light) thats were id start personally.
could definitely be your fuel pressure. . . it is a finiky thing, might have enough to start the truck but as soon as you go to idle the pressure isnt sufficient for combustion to remain active. also could be a vacuum leak. if it's bad enough, then your truck wont have enough fuel in the cylinder to fire which is why it will start but wont idle, but may continue to run if you are feeding it gas.
READ THIS: CHECK -ALL- OF YOUR AIR INTAKE HOSES: possibly nothing short of a miracle for you happened to me. . . my father let me drive his '91 Volvo 940turbo from Louisville, KY to Little Rock, AR to see my 4 day old niece. 1/2 way through the trip down there I check his oil, which I personally changed for him days before Christmas '09, and not only was it low, but it was dirty too. Rather than add oil then, I decided to change the oil for him during my visit in AR. In doing so, I also changed his air filter which required disconnecting some intake hoses to access. Once replacing the air filter and reconnecting the hoses, I take a shower and get ready to leave but the car does -EXACTLY- what you are describing. It promptly starts, but immediately dies. I initially think it's because the engine is not properly lubricated, but with repeat starts and feeding it gas, the same thing happens. I check the engine bay and one of the large intake hoses I disconnected was still not connected. . . but at the -opposite- end of the hose. . .which I didnt even touch. It was after the o2 sensor and so the engine had sufficient air intake but the sensor was not reading as such and was killing the engine. Your problem may be as small has having an intake leak or an intake hose disconnected, most likely post-o2 sensor. Hope this helps!! Might be the prefect answer to your problem that just happened to slide past me and let me diagnose and figure out.
It could definitely be the battery, these trucks need 12.5-13 volts to idle properly.... the starter doesn't require nearly a much voltage. I've seen it happen hundreds of times on Rams, Dakotas and Durangos. Not trying to argue with you but it's an extremely common issue
lets put it this way check your voltmeter, i know on my truck the one on the dash hovers around 14-16, but my trailer brake controller has a voltage monitor and im any were between 14.5-15.5, but still if the battery isnt putting out atleast 12v your not gonna start the truck its that simple the starter needs 12 volts to operate properly, and like i said before you dont physically need a battery to run the truck only to start it. And ive idled my truck at 8 volts before when my alternator was starting to go, it doesnt run good but it never stalled out or any thing
well, that problem is solved. I know I little about vehicles, but some of the sensors and valves they put on them lately have got me a bit puzzled. it ended up being the idle air control. I figured that out by first replacing the tps and then the iac. So $110 later(for 2 little plastic devices) it was runnin. I knew it wasn't the battery because of its continuous starting ability. However, since then my transfer case has been shattered while driving down the highway. How cheaps that gonna be? Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas.
if your gonna stay with the same spicer transfer case, since rams from 94-01 are the exact same with parts and what not, you can get a transfercase out of a junk yard for under $150 dollars, a new one is in the range of 3-400 how ever, if your paying a shop to put it in, theyll charge you for about 5-7 hours of labor, atleast thats about how long it took me to put a new transfercase in my 96.
come on now,(running the truck without a battery connected),man,this is a no,no anytime.The persons answering this question and stating a battery condition are doing so because ,even the newer snowmobiles that use relays now to operate and switch various circuits act this way even, especially when the battery is not fully charged or for whatever reason the battery is causing issues.
I agree with this diagnosis Justin..
Glad you got it sorted out... GL with the tcase
ok which is why (mr. running a vehicle with a battery is a no, anytime.) at any auto motive repair shop you go too to get a battery swapped out they will first start the vehicle with the old battery, remove the old battery (with the vehicle still running) and replace it with a new battery (thats how jiffy lube, valvoline IOC, and most dealerships do it), i do it all the time if youd like ill put a video up just special for you because you dont understand that all the alternator does is recycle power around the vehicles electrical system the only real time your battery is really being used is if you have a large draw on your power system ie starting the vehicle.
I donno what shops you visit but I've never seen anyone change a battery that way. New vehicles have a safety feature, if you get in a wreck and break the battery it's designed so the motor stops running. Or, if the fire department comes out and disconnects the battery like is standard practice, it will keep the motor from running as well.... Sometimes they can't simply reach in and turn the key. Older motor used to run directly off of the alternator, the newer ones run and charge through the PCM. If you remove the power to the PCM, it shuts everything else down.
well im not a total idiot i know the BRAND new cars have all that stupid stuff, but i know for a fact 2001 rams dont, hell im even willing to bet he doesnt have to hit his brake to shift out of park very very few dodge trucks had that safety feature until 2003 lol
If you haven't solved it yet, I would clean the AIS motor and throttle body with Carb Cleaner first.
Any late model vehicle will do the same, because when you remove the + cable, you're removing both the battery power to the PCM and the charging wire from the alternator at the same time and since charging and ignition are usually both run through the PCM, it dies. Every vehicle in North America has had to depress the brake to shift from park since the 90's, like every other part of a vehicle some times the lock out breaks or wears out... like in my Dakota
well i know for a fact that thing about vehicles in the 90s and the depressing of the brake to shift is wrong, my truck doesnt even have a place to put a lock to keep it from shifting with out the brake niether do any of the other rams that ive worked on lately theyre all mostly 93s-98s, and on my moms 07 durango night runner when i was doing a new battery i was able to start it and take the battery out with the truck running and install the new one.
They don't have a place to put the lock? your joking right? This discussion has become extremely tedious, you clearly know everything for a fact......carry on changing batteries on running vehicles.
im dead ass ive gone through three transmissions on that thing each one has been a junk yard special and my linkage doesnt have the lock, and im sorry for challenging you, apparently your an all knowing god of cars and what you say goes ill back off im clearly out classed.
I had the same problem. After i put a small charge on my 2002 Ram the started but it would not stay running without some pressure on the gas pedal. After driving around a bit the problem started to go away so i put full charge on the battery and everything was fine. Not sure what drained the battery in the first place.
like the one guy said make sure ur battery is good and terminals are clean if u have corrison on terminals truck with crank but not idle and make sure there tight also i have 97 dodge ram 360 done the same thing also clean ur air breather
i will be driving down the road and all of the sudden the truck will start to cut out and jerk sometimes it will stall or it will cut out and then come right back and do ok for a while and then sometimes ill have to pull over and when i try to start it it just turns over until i turn the key off, turn it back on to the on position push the gas pedel to the floor and let it up and it will start right back up when this happens the check engine light comes on it dont come on until this happens i have a 2005 dodge ram 4x4 with a 5.7 hemi and i do know u cant leave a engine running anymore without a batty and all cars and trucks have a safty feature where u have to push on the brake before u can put the car in drive its been like that for along time now the guy that says u can run a car without a battery is mistaken its just didnt happen,but back to my problem i think it is the tps because u can reset it by pushing the pedal down and right back up it resets the sencor as soon as i do that it works everytime it has never failed to work if i do that thanks for listening to me and give me an answer of u might think it is i thank you
i have a 98 dakota i cut the ignition wires under the steering wheel and re wired them and i put new belts on the gas tank every thing was fine one day i was driving in the rain an my truck shut off wouldnt start i checked the fuse box under the hood and the fuel pump relay was caroaded and the tip off the wire was caroaded i couldnt get the tips out so i cut them and rewired the to a relay now i pulled the line off the gas tank and im getting full and the bleader valve on the rail im getting fuel before i did the wiring on the relay i had to start it with starting fluid and when i would push the pedal down it would shut off now i have pedal but it wont stay running PLEASE HELP PLEASE im lost e mail what ever it takes firstname.lastname@example.org thank you
Thx truck been setting in grandfather barn for 3 yrs had 2 jump it to get it started turned right over and started up but as soon as u take foot off gas it quite Oh it"s a 2002 Dokata
I had the same problem. 1998 Dodge 2500 Ram Van with a 360. It started and ran with a foot on the gas pedal but died instantly at idle. I tested the battery and it read 12v. Did a test while jumped to another battery in a running car to make sure system was at full charge - still died. Then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve located near the transmission side of the throttle body. Two torx screws. Replaced it and viola! Van runs and idles great.
I am having the same problem goin to get the tps an iac right now check back with status after puting it back on
Changed TPS sensor its running fine, was easy to install. Thanks guys I totally appreciate this site
My sisters truck is having a similar issue......2002 ram 1500.....so she should check the same thing? Iac and tps? Its also blowing out black smoke....??
could some one give me direction on what might be my problem ,I got a 98 dodge Dakota 3.9 it will start and stop just as if I primed it then shut the key off and turn it on again it will keep doing the same thing it will only start for a few seconds rev. up and stall out every time.i replaced the I c valve removed the bat cables and it still does the same thing
Hope this helps. remove the cable from the negative post on the battery. Turn the ignition into the start position and hold it there for 30 seconds. This resets the computer. Then reattach the cable and start the vehicle. It works every time for me.
dont no wats up,jus changed iac and tps in mine n it will not start at all now!HELP!!!!
We're having the same issue rite now with my dad's truck it starts but will not idle when u push the gas the throttle doesn't do anything any advise please
check your tpi or your idle controll sensor.
The real answer is...I have done this dozens of times because my battery used to die a lot...Step 1: disconnect the battery. Step 2: turn your key all the way to the start position and hold it there for 30 seconds. Step 3: reconnect your battery. Step 4: start your car. I was told that this "resets" the vehicles computer. Works for me every time and I have no further issues until the next time by battery dies.
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup. Battery was flat this morning. Charged it for a couple hours and truck started but would stall when RPMs fell below 1000. Got a new battery (figured fix the obvious problem before troubleshooting anything else) and all was back to normal.
Did you disconnect the battery, then turn the key all the way to the start possition for 30 seconds to reset the computer, then reconnect the battery? This should work.
So many people jump in spending money to replace things rather than resetting the computer first. No one will tell you to do this if they can get you to give them money for things you don't need. It isn't a battery problem. However changing the battery may indeed reset the computer as well. Also, I have driven the car for a several blocks without allowing the engine revs to fall low enough for it to quit on me and that has also resulted in resetting the computer. Try one or both of these BEFORE you spend money.
You are Right Travelingirl. I was ready to start replacing coils, crank sensors and Throttle Position sensors on my 2001 Ran 1500. After a dead battery it would stall as soon as my foot came off the gas. I did the disconnect on the battery and turned the key for 30 seconds. Like magic it solved the problem..A 5 minute free Fix.
I just changed out the corroded positive terminal on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L and it fixed the problem for me.
Had same problem; jumped the car to start it but it wouldn't idle. Battery was 6 years old. Took it back to cost co and got a 20% rebate and bought a new battery. Everything is back to normal.
I have a similar problem, my truck for 1 is eating O2 sensors for some reason, just replace entire exhaust about 6 months back due O2 sensor going out and when i took it into get it replaced they told me they have never seen a dual system set up like i had. True duals with 2 cats. However both O2 sensors were on the passenger side cat one at the front of it and one at the rear of it but both on the cat. Anyways I replaced the hole thing and went back to one cat with a y pipe set up just like from the factory. now the O2 sensors still go out and trip CEL. just recently it started it idle lower than normal, sometimes after shifting into park and pulling out of drive way it dies, fires right back up then drives great. once up to 60 it drops out of gear then will slam back into it. The tranny was just rebuilt so it is working fine, the tps, iac, and map sensors are all new and just had a tune up. any help?
truck is a 98 dodge 1500 360 4x4 auto single cab long wheel base
Ok! I have had the problem on my 1500 Dodge truck (98') model where it starts and dies at idle. Replaced fuel pump due to the fact it was not picking up the fuel, seemed to have fixed the problem only for it to returen a year later! Have since tried the solution "Travelingirl" has suggested and the truck is working fine...it's been less than 24 hrs but the truck is running fine to this point. Will give further update to see how this progresses!!!
I just had the same problem: Truck started, but wouldn't stay running unless I kept giving it gas. After checking a couple other forums, I tried rebooting the computer. Disconnect the battery for 2-3 minutes. After reconnecting everything, the truck runs great. No need to tear into anything. First rule of electronics: unplug it, then plug it back in. If that doesn't work, THEN move on to more intrusive inspection.
Please HELP.....I have a 1998 Dodge 1500 with the V6...for 3 weeks it has been stalling occasionally at a stop sign and/or while driving any speed, usuall it spits and sputter, then fires back up when I'm moving at a fairly fast speed. I does a bit of backfire sometimes when this happens and it sometimes will stall and do this 2 or 3 times before it clears up and runs right til my destination or for at least several more miles....I replaced my fuel pressure regulator today thinking for sure that $100 part must be it but I am still having the issue. My only vehicle and scared to death it's gonna leave me stranded and losing my job hurting our family severely!
2001 360.Mine was the battery
Thanks a lot I reset my computer my 2002 ram with 5.9 started right up
I ended up having to replace my computer and it's been running like new since! What a headache and bitch to diagnose! Thanks to all those whom said Computer problem
my mechanic says I don't have a stalling problem I have a starting problem. '99 Ram lets me down and will NOT restart, after firing up perfectly to get us out of the driveway. Smelled firecrackers the last time I started it (quick start-up, then I shut her off). he doesn't want to throw darts at repairing it; says he's tried the above.
except new computer - says manufacturer has to do it
anybody in Manitoba want to buy it so THEY can fix it?
Back to the question . No one said once about checking to see if the alternater was checked to see if it was still good. The first two things to be checked is the battery and alternater. My ram would not start unless it was boosted than I had to hold the gas . Once the gas was let go the rpms would drop and the truck would die... check alt and batt at your local parts place.
My 1996 dodge 1500 would not idle with out holding the pedal down a bit. I read these post and cleaned my throttle body. I also found a vacuume hose that was shot. She is running better than ever. Thanks for the help.
thanks for the info fellas. I believe this issue is battery related. My 1999 Dodge Ram would start, but would not stay started unless I held my foot on the gas. It was running perfect the day before so I had not idea why this was occurring. I decided to start it and then drive it around the neighborhood a bit. After a few blocks it stayed started and has since then. I am no mechanic, and know very little about engines, etc., bit I just had this truck in the shop and dropped over 4k getting it fixed. I asked them to check everything and fix anything and everything they felt needed to be fixed. So I felt this issue had to be with the battery and it's charge. So I tried something one of you posted and know she runs perfectly, as she did the day before. :)
for the problem about having to throttle to keep it running... clean your IAC motor, the idle air control motor is on the back of the throttle body, 2 hex bolts and its out, clean it and stick it back in, reset your IAC settings through a scan tool too if possible, I had the exact same issue on my 99 1500 and after I did that at work, runs great, problem solved
Ok i been reading all this and some of yall are idiots!!!! i have a 99 single cab 4x4 short wheel base and it does not have the brake shift lock its not broken nor did i take it off i bought the truck new and it was never there so to explain for yall idiots i start it and pull it into gear without touching the brakes so explain that if yall know so much!!!!!!! but recently i been having a starting problem at a cold start not saying when its cold outside just when it sits overnight or long enough for the engine cool down it starts but dies immediately i hold the throttle to start it and hold it around 1000 rpms for say 30 seconds release the throttle and it stays running but lopes around 550- 650 rpms while engine is cold but when it warms up a lil it idles like its suppose too plz explain that????!!!! i have replaced the battery and the tps n the iacv n the fuel pump n injectors so I'm a lose o n yes i tried the resetting computer and it didn't work nethr so what's next????
Ahh Dodge 1500 series engine idle problems… (The battery) Assuming you have a good battery… if it cranks the engine over at normal cranking speed, consider the battery good, and not an issue. (Fuel pressure) Normally, when you turn the key from off to run, you will hear the pump run for about 2-5 seconds. If the truck is running, (with your foot on the gas), and running mostly normally, you can automatically rule OUT a bad fuel pump. Mostly fuel pumps are good, or bad, rarely in-between… Often there is NO check engine light with this condition (dying at idle). Sometime you may see P505 IAC circuit malfunction on a code reader. If this is the only code you see, or see no codes, proceeded. IAC valves sometimes get stuck by carbon deposits, and cleaning the throttle body helps. However, this is not really all that common. IAC valves are actually pretty bullet proof, all they are a motorized solenoid, or motor which is just looped wire… meaning there is not much inside them to go wrong in the first place… however, they are dirt cheap at about $30 for a lifetime warranted part. So replacing it really can’t hurt! It’s fairly easy (if you remove the throttle body). This process takes about an hour for the average DIY person. Most DIY’ers remove the throttle body and clean when they replace the IAC; such is just good practice. Remove the black harness from the PCM and unplug the connector from the IAC. Set a VOM to continuity check and make sure the VOM beeps when the test leads are touched. Test continuity from the IAC to the following pin points on the PCM harness (1997-1999 for sure, other years may be different wire colors and pin points in the harness) Purple with black trace to pin 20 Brown with white trace to pin 11 Yellow with black trace to pin 10 Grey with red trace to pin 19 Ensure that there is no continuity-to-ground faults, or cross control shorts ( no continuity between these wires to each other) from these wires. If the wire harness tests out good, the throttle body is clean, there is a new IAC, you are getting good fuel pressure at the injectors, and the engine cranking speed is normal… the only other part that can go wrong is the PCM… The PCM sends pulses to the IAC, and this is the ONLY part that actually adjusts the amount of air going into the intake. All other intake air bleeds are metered (PCV Valve) and 1% tolerance for system leakage at hose connection points. When we see a dodge 1500 etal… that was running fine in the weeks before… suddenly develop a dying at idle problem, a wandering RPM at idle, difficulty running when cold, but running OK when hot, lugging at 500 or so RPM, or running at 1000+ RPM when warm… 80% of the time (after controlling for the other items above) it is the PCM. The PCM has over 500 solid state transistors and other solid state components inside. If only 1 transistor fails, you have instant problems… I’ve seen solder on the circuit boards crack all the way around pins and components. When this happen, you can have a good electrical connection at one temperature rage, and loose it when it heats up (or sometimes when it cools down). Even humidity can make or break weak connections. Although a PCM with lifetime warranty cost $250-$350 it’s only a 10 minute fix. I’ve seen PCMs go bad, and you replace it, only to discover a faulty sensor that the faulty PCM could not “see.” So don’t beat yourself up if this happens. Sometimes its mind blowing how the sequence of events unfolds that present as different problems. The PCM… it’s the single most complicated part on your entire vehicle. If the vehicle was running fine in the weeks before, and suddenly presents as described above, AND you have no check engine light, or code P505, most likely you have a bad PCM… Also keep this in mind… if you are using a code reader, and you are looking at active engine data, such as RPM, Temp, MAP, O2 and all the other basic sensor inputs know this: IF you are seeing the input on your screen, the sensor on the vehicle is in fact sending that data to the PCM. This usually rules out a faulty sensor… For example if you are searing 650RPM and 12.5Deg Ign advance on your code reader, and your ear tells you the RPM is in fact near this range, and there is no misfiring, you deduce by default the vehicle is in fact sending the correct RPM data to the PCM and that the PCM is driving the ignition at the approximate correct time. So… you would probably not consider the crankshaft position sensor to be faulty under that scenario. 90% of the time, when sensors go bad, you get some related check engine code. 80% of the time when something goes bad and there is no code, the PCM is going out. Bad PCMs do all sorts of crazy things… I don’t always trouble shoot, but when I do, I use a trunk monkey
I have a 1998 RAM and two years ago during winter it was stalling out when coming back down to normal idle (versus cold idle). I was able to re-start it but had to keep revving the engine to keep it from stalling out again. It finally died one day and wouldn't start so I had it towed. Mechanic couldn't find anything so we slapped a new battery in it. Problem solved. Fast forward to today and it stalled again so I got a new battery and it's back running. Both times it happened during winter when we all know batteries get drained. I only drive 5,000 miles a year so it doesn't get the charge it needs is all I can figure.
I have a 2001 Ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.9 and mine just quit on me. If I forced the engine to run and add gas pedal it would run. But when i would let off it would quit again, I did as suggested and replaced the Idle Air Contol Valve and with assistance with adding gas the computer kicked in and it idled just as before.
We had the same issue - cleaned the battery cables and the truck started idling fine. So either it CAN be the battery or our problem miraculously went away at the same time.
Cudo's to Travelingirl. Replacement of coils, crank sensors and Throttle Position Sensors on my 2002 Ram 1500 is NOT NEEDED after her computer reset suggestion. To recap the problem: the truck would start fine but stall as soon as my foot came off the gas. I disconnected the battery and turned the key to the ON POSITION for 30 seconds AND like magic it solved the problem. A 5 fast and easy Fix without a bill from the auto shop. :-)
I've done the battery and found on my it would only last a week or 2 sometimes longer but that was the average but recently i found when i start my truck i take it out of overdrive on start up let warm up some go thru the gears r n d back to n then r or d!!!! Still out of od go up road and cruse at 45mph for a couple miles speed up to 50mph take foot off throttle but back in od and your good for awhile!!!! I done this every day for around 3 months and so far I've only reset my truck 1 time!!!!! good luck every one hope this helps somebody!!!! Remember give em he** yal
you should look into the TPS
I have a 1997 Dodge and I've had that problem on more than a few occasions. I would firstly check the plugs, wires, distributor cap and button. If they are in good shape, Check your throttle position sensor and Idle Air Control Valve (Both located on the throttle body). If those aren't the issues, check out your fuel delivery system, (Fuel pump in the gas tank and fuel injectors). Those would be the possible issues that I would check out. My issue was the sensor and IAC valve. Best of Luck!
360 engine? Have your battery tested.... I'll bet you it's toast
as Justin says,"change out the battery",or at least make sure that the terminals are clean.Get an amperage test done on your battery to test it for endurance because just because it says 12 volts means nothing really for the battery's ability to produce amperage to run the relays for the various electronic controls.I had this same problem and it dissappeared when I changed out the battery.
I have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 truck was driving fine the next day the battery was dead my friend left the light on so I jumped it and it started i let off on the gas pedal and it would die and then I keep my foot on the gas and drove home now it starts but the gas pedal only goes down a little and it takes time to get up to speed
Reset the computer once your battery dies it throws a fault code to the cpu
I've posted this several times but not for more than a year. If your van is starting up with no problem but cutting out as soon as you take your foot off the gas then you may have the same problem I have. Solution is EASY and FREE. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Turn the key all the way to the start position and hold it there for 30 seconds. 3. Reconnect the battery. 4. Start your van. I'm told this "resets" the computer.
I found out that it was. It was carbon buildup on the throttle body
my truck was running fine light was left on want stay on unless u keep kyour foot on the gas stayed on last night twice what could it be
Well, Im no expert in anything. But I have had alot of older vehicles 70's-90's. And The fastest way (in my experience) to check an alternator is to unplug the positive terminal , If the car dies right away . Pull that alternator and have it tested to verify what you suspect (bad alternator) but if it stays running , thats a good indication of the alternator doing its job. I personally wouldnt change the battery while the vehicle was running in fear of a power surge shorting something out (not sure if these new cars have protections against that) but on the older ones I'd be concerned about toasting the computer (if available) or blowing fuses,ballast resistor etc. But yes your (older) car will be able to drive without the battery if your alternator is in good shape. Just chiming in on what seemed to be a point of debate or uncertainty. -B
Check ur spark plug wires. I change the air idle sensor. It helped. Became intermittent. Brought to and asked my mechanic for advise between the pcv valves being stuck an the hoses rotten. Also noticed plug wires where grounding to exhaust manifold.
Actually it was and can be the battery with a Dead Cell. Just had it happen and new battery fixed
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