truck wont stay running
I have a 2001 dodge 1500 pickup. The truck fires right up but will not stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. As soon as I let off the throttle it dies instantly without sputtering. Gauges read fine and it does it even after it has warmed up. Before I tear into it, I was hoping somebody would have some simple solutions to check first. Thanks.
I have a 1997 Dodge and I've had that problem on more than a few occasions. I would firstly check the plugs, wires, distributor cap and button. If they are in good shape, Check your throttle position sensor and Idle Air Control Valve (Both located on the throttle body). If those aren't the issues, check out your fuel delivery system, (Fuel pump in the gas tank and fuel injectors). Those would be the possible issues that I would check out. My issue was the sensor and IAC valve. Best of Luck!
360 engine? Have your battery tested.... I'll bet you it's toast
as Justin says,"change out the battery",or at least make sure that the terminals are clean.Get an amperage test done on your battery to test it for endurance because just because it says 12 volts means nothing really for the battery's ability to produce amperage to run the relays for the various electronic controls.I had this same problem and it dissappeared when I changed out the battery.
its not the battery if the truck is starting, once the truck is running you can pop the battery out and drive around all day with just the alternator (say its bullshit and ill make a video for you) when you let off the gas if the oil pressure goes down power gets cut to your fuel pump ( atleast thats what my 96 did before i got a new oil pump in it) so watch your oil pressure gauge when you let off the gas. you could have a bad TPS sensor ( it wont always throw a check engine light) thats were id start personally.
could definitely be your fuel pressure. . . it is a finiky thing, might have enough to start the truck but as soon as you go to idle the pressure isnt sufficient for combustion to remain active. also could be a vacuum leak. if it's bad enough, then your truck wont have enough fuel in the cylinder to fire which is why it will start but wont idle, but may continue to run if you are feeding it gas.
READ THIS: CHECK -ALL- OF YOUR AIR INTAKE HOSES: possibly nothing short of a miracle for you happened to me. . . my father let me drive his '91 Volvo 940turbo from Louisville, KY to Little Rock, AR to see my 4 day old niece. 1/2 way through the trip down there I check his oil, which I personally changed for him days before Christmas '09, and not only was it low, but it was dirty too. Rather than add oil then, I decided to change the oil for him during my visit in AR. In doing so, I also changed his air filter which required disconnecting some intake hoses to access. Once replacing the air filter and reconnecting the hoses, I take a shower and get ready to leave but the car does -EXACTLY- what you are describing. It promptly starts, but immediately dies. I initially think it's because the engine is not properly lubricated, but with repeat starts and feeding it gas, the same thing happens. I check the engine bay and one of the large intake hoses I disconnected was still not connected. . . but at the -opposite- end of the hose. . .which I didnt even touch. It was after the o2 sensor and so the engine had sufficient air intake but the sensor was not reading as such and was killing the engine. Your problem may be as small has having an intake leak or an intake hose disconnected, most likely post-o2 sensor. Hope this helps!! Might be the prefect answer to your problem that just happened to slide past me and let me diagnose and figure out.
It could definitely be the battery, these trucks need 12.5-13 volts to idle properly.... the starter doesn't require nearly a much voltage. I've seen it happen hundreds of times on Rams, Dakotas and Durangos. Not trying to argue with you but it's an extremely common issue
lets put it this way check your voltmeter, i know on my truck the one on the dash hovers around 14-16, but my trailer brake controller has a voltage monitor and im any were between 14.5-15.5, but still if the battery isnt putting out atleast 12v your not gonna start the truck its that simple the starter needs 12 volts to operate properly, and like i said before you dont physically need a battery to run the truck only to start it. And ive idled my truck at 8 volts before when my alternator was starting to go, it doesnt run good but it never stalled out or any thing
well, that problem is solved. I know I little about vehicles, but some of the sensors and valves they put on them lately have got me a bit puzzled. it ended up being the idle air control. I figured that out by first replacing the tps and then the iac. So $110 later(for 2 little plastic devices) it was runnin. I knew it wasn't the battery because of its continuous starting ability. However, since then my transfer case has been shattered while driving down the highway. How cheaps that gonna be? Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas.
if your gonna stay with the same spicer transfer case, since rams from 94-01 are the exact same with parts and what not, you can get a transfercase out of a junk yard for under $150 dollars, a new one is in the range of 3-400 how ever, if your paying a shop to put it in, theyll charge you for about 5-7 hours of labor, atleast thats about how long it took me to put a new transfercase in my 96.
come on now,(running the truck without a battery connected),man,this is a no,no anytime.The persons answering this question and stating a battery condition are doing so because ,even the newer snowmobiles that use relays now to operate and switch various circuits act this way even, especially when the battery is not fully charged or for whatever reason the battery is causing issues.
ok which is why (mr. running a vehicle with a battery is a no, anytime.) at any auto motive repair shop you go too to get a battery swapped out they will first start the vehicle with the old battery, remove the old battery (with the vehicle still running) and replace it with a new battery (thats how jiffy lube, valvoline IOC, and most dealerships do it), i do it all the time if youd like ill put a video up just special for you because you dont understand that all the alternator does is recycle power around the vehicles electrical system the only real time your battery is really being used is if you have a large draw on your power system ie starting the vehicle.
I donno what shops you visit but I've never seen anyone change a battery that way. New vehicles have a safety feature, if you get in a wreck and break the battery it's designed so the motor stops running. Or, if the fire department comes out and disconnects the battery like is standard practice, it will keep the motor from running as well.... Sometimes they can't simply reach in and turn the key. Older motor used to run directly off of the alternator, the newer ones run and charge through the PCM. If you remove the power to the PCM, it shuts everything else down.
well im not a total idiot i know the BRAND new cars have all that stupid stuff, but i know for a fact 2001 rams dont, hell im even willing to bet he doesnt have to hit his brake to shift out of park very very few dodge trucks had that safety feature until 2003 lol
If you haven't solved it yet, I would clean the AIS motor and throttle body with Carb Cleaner first.
Any late model vehicle will do the same, because when you remove the + cable, you're removing both the battery power to the PCM and the charging wire from the alternator at the same time and since charging and ignition are usually both run through the PCM, it dies. Every vehicle in North America has had to depress the brake to shift from park since the 90's, like every other part of a vehicle some times the lock out breaks or wears out... like in my Dakota
well i know for a fact that thing about vehicles in the 90s and the depressing of the brake to shift is wrong, my truck doesnt even have a place to put a lock to keep it from shifting with out the brake niether do any of the other rams that ive worked on lately theyre all mostly 93s-98s, and on my moms 07 durango night runner when i was doing a new battery i was able to start it and take the battery out with the truck running and install the new one.
They don't have a place to put the lock? your joking right? This discussion has become extremely tedious, you clearly know everything for a fact......carry on changing batteries on running vehicles.
im dead ass ive gone through three transmissions on that thing each one has been a junk yard special and my linkage doesnt have the lock, and im sorry for challenging you, apparently your an all knowing god of cars and what you say goes ill back off im clearly out classed.
I had the same problem. After i put a small charge on my 2002 Ram the started but it would not stay running without some pressure on the gas pedal. After driving around a bit the problem started to go away so i put full charge on the battery and everything was fine. Not sure what drained the battery in the first place.
like the one guy said make sure ur battery is good and terminals are clean if u have corrison on terminals truck with crank but not idle and make sure there tight also i have 97 dodge ram 360 done the same thing also clean ur air breather
i will be driving down the road and all of the sudden the truck will start to cut out and jerk sometimes it will stall or it will cut out and then come right back and do ok for a while and then sometimes ill have to pull over and when i try to start it it just turns over until i turn the key off, turn it back on to the on position push the gas pedel to the floor and let it up and it will start right back up when this happens the check engine light comes on it dont come on until this happens i have a 2005 dodge ram 4x4 with a 5.7 hemi and i do know u cant leave a engine running anymore without a batty and all cars and trucks have a safty feature where u have to push on the brake before u can put the car in drive its been like that for along time now the guy that says u can run a car without a battery is mistaken its just didnt happen,but back to my problem i think it is the tps because u can reset it by pushing the pedal down and right back up it resets the sencor as soon as i do that it works everytime it has never failed to work if i do that thanks for listening to me and give me an answer of u might think it is i thank you
i have a 98 dakota i cut the ignition wires under the steering wheel and re wired them and i put new belts on the gas tank every thing was fine one day i was driving in the rain an my truck shut off wouldnt start i checked the fuse box under the hood and the fuel pump relay was caroaded and the tip off the wire was caroaded i couldnt get the tips out so i cut them and rewired the to a relay now i pulled the line off the gas tank and im getting full and the bleader valve on the rail im getting fuel before i did the wiring on the relay i had to start it with starting fluid and when i would push the pedal down it would shut off now i have pedal but it wont stay running PLEASE HELP PLEASE im lost e mail what ever it takes derrickhyser@aim.com thank you
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