1989 F150 Fuel problems.
I have a 1989 Ford F150 with the 5.0 fuel injected. Its not getting gas and I don't know where the problem begins. I know its getting fuel up to the fuel pump by the driver's door. but not sure about afterwards. Is there anyway I could rig a gas can to it so that it'll get fuel directly too the motor and I could get it to run? Like on the older model fords that have the fuel pump on the driver side of the motor? Or is that not possible with the fuel injection?
check all of the fuel lines and go to a parts house and get some Lucas and clean out your fuel injectors, and if that doesnt work then look into a new fuel pump
I also have an 89 ford f150 with the 5.0. Before spending a lot of money, jump the wires to the fuel pump just inside the frame rails under the driver door. Several fords that I have worked with fail at the relay controlling the fuel pumps, fore and aft. (You have two pumps, one on the rail and one in the fuel tank.) If the pump powers up, replace both the relay and the connector. Corrosion will cause the relay to fail.
Where are these wires at? And what colors are they?
I also have a 1989 f150 five speed straight 6. I just changed the fuel pump and the filter and after driving half the day it sputtered and died out I poured a gallon of gas in the tank hopping it was out and it started right up only to die out again after about 5 miles and now it wont start. Would you know what it may be and how to fix it?
http://blog.chiltondiy.com/2012/05/how-to-tell-if-your-fuel-pump- needs-replacing/.... great troubleshooting guide
I just overcame a 1986 5.0 efi f150 randomly dying on me. The fuel pump relay (driver side firewall under the hood hinge) powered up for 2 seconds at key to run position, but the high pressure fuel pump did not run at all, and there was no fuel at the fuel rail (used a modified toothpick to press the schraeder valve open). The eec relay and computer powered up also (behind the little box to the lower right of the steering wheel on the dash). I checked that I did indeed have 12volts to the inertia cutoff switch just above the upper left side of the passenger floorboard. I ripped the radio and heater control area apart to get to the fuel tank selector switch. I had also put my battery on the charger and pulled the high pressure fuel pump, checking all the wires at the same time. I hooked the fuel pump for a split second to the batter on the charger, it sputtered out gas and seemed to run fine. I reinstalled it. I also decided to bypass the fuel tank selector switch, connecting the second (middle) slot on the left (power in) to the lower left slot (front in-tank pump). I also connected the second (middle) slot on the right (signal to fuel guage) to the lower right slot (front tank sending unit). I re-installed the battery, turned the key to the run position and was happy to hear the relays click and the high pressure pump kick on. I then had a friend turn the key off and then back to run so that I could verify the in-tank pump in the front tank also ran for 2 seconds; it did. I had my friend cycle the ignition about 8 times until the pump started to sound like it was laboring a bit. I then pushed the schraeder valve again with my toothpick and fuel shot out at pressure. The truch started perfectly and ran like a top. If I have any further problems, I am 98% sure that it is will work out to be a shorted or bad connection between ground and the high pressure pump, or 12volts in from the inertia switch (possibly shorted by the tank selector switch). I hope this helps someone else. It was quite the mental effort to go through everything methodical.
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