CRV Timing Chain?
Not that I have heard of.
i am in service at a Honda dealer and we dont have any problems with them at all.
and you have a chain not a belt
Yes, I think so. I have been told by Honda that I have to replace my timing chain, and the timing chain tensioner and timing chain cover, at only 102,000 km (60,000 miles) and a cost of $1,300 plus tax. Strange, since the car has had all its regular maintenance, by Honda, and I bought this vehicle on the understanding that the chain was designed to last the life of the engine. Does that mean that my engine is also shot? Or is it possibly a misdiagnosis of another problem? Or is it a Honda CRV timing chain and or tensioner problem?
Yes I have a 2006 Honda CR-V and I recently went to the dealer and they said my timing chain has shifted and it is not covered under warranty.
I am at disbelief because I have a 2006 Honda CR-V and I just reached 100,00 miles and all of a sudden the timing chain has shifted. Now the Honda dealer is telling me that it is going to cost $1300 to fix and replace it. I was told that these vehicles were built to last and I wish I had read these online reports before I purchased my vehicle because others are having the same exact problem.
i also work in honda service as a tech and can vouch for Aaron. Me and my co workers havent had any problems with the 2.4 timing chain engine that you have. Although we've had one that did need a chain and tensioner because it streched. Sometimes we might get a complaint of a noise due to the timing chain slapping on the guides but thats it. Your situation is kinda odd.
I have a 2005 with 145,000 km and the chain has stretched. The Check Engine light comes on intermittently. Code is PO341. Problem is crank and cam positions don't match due to stretched chain. Vehicle has always been serviced at dealer using recommended fluids.
We also got an intermittent check engine light and a dealer diagnosis of P0341, Cam & Crank in incorrect phase. This is on our '04 Honda CR-V, at 124,000 miles. This is especially surprising as that dealer had just replaced timing chain and tensioner 2 years ago, under an unspecified "service bulletin", as no-cost warranty repair (also they were unaware they had done this until I checked my invoice file and told them). As a former mech engineer, I cannot buy the "stretched chain" hypothesis. I believe a chain can only be stretched by huge torque, as on a racing motorcycle back wheel. Driving a camshaft should be a mild and steady load, I would think. I think it is far more likely to be a tensioner problem, and that should cost much less than the $650 or so they quoted for chain and tensioner. But the service guy sticks to 'the book' and the diagnostic code. He claims that the tech measured the deflection of the tensioner and chain, and found too much free play in the chain. The book says to replace both. He also said, correctly, that our car was low on oil. True, we have been losing oil over a couple of years and have not found the cause, but the car was occasionally 2 qts low (my fault). He claims that low oil can cause the tensioner to fail, which is believable since the tensioner depends on clean oil and oil pressure to function. I have to say that I am impressed that the car computer can measure and compare the crank and cam positions, and each has its own (angular) position sensor. I presume that a total failure of either sensor would put out a different code (as well as shut down the engine), and I doubt that either sensor could 'shift' out of calibration since they probably produce a pulse from a fixed mark on each shaft. Therefore I accept the finding that the two shafts are out of phase, whether constantly or intermittently. It is out of the question for the chain to have jumped a tooth on a sprocket- even if this were possible it would show up as bad performance right away. That leaves insufficient tensioning as the cause, so the chain goes a bit slack and the cam shaft 'lags' a bit. We don't hear 'chain slap' but it must be occurring, and it is bad. I will probably insist that they only replace the tensioner, against their advice, though I usually take their advice regardless of cost. I would like to hear a more detailed explanation of this code P0341 from one of the experienced techs.
Hi , since you are a service person for Honda would you please let me know if 2006 Honda CRV fully loaded EX- LAWD special Edition has chain timing or belt ? Thanx
my honda crv 2005 stopped suddenly on motorway..without any warning..fortunately, I was on inside lane, and cruised on to lay by...timing chain had broken...affecting the fuel injectors..all of..which had to be replaced..and full engine dismantled....and cost over £1000, for parts alone, to replace..so much for honda reputation..will not consider in future ... posted 2012
The timing chain on my 2005 Honda CR-V has also broken. I have to replace the whole engine over $3,500 in damage. I won't be able to afford to fix it for a few weeks.
My 2002 CR-V jumped timing due to a faulty tensioner. I was told by a honda tech that the tensioners go every 150,000kms. I don't believe there was any chain slap. There might be a bent valve, but one thing at a time. I will replace the tensioner, retime the engine, crank it over by hand and see if I have anything hitting. If not, then I will do a compression test. If no compression, then I will pull the head, replace the bent valves myself. If the valve guides are bent, then I will send the head into a machine shop to have them service it. I will then re-install the head (with a new head gasket) and new tensioner, time the engine and it should run like new. I won't replace the water pump as I've been told by various tech's that they'll run 250,000kms.
So, if it ends up that there is more damage than I expected once I get the head off (i.e. damaged pistons), then I will simply buy a used engine from an auto-wrecker with low kms and install a new tensioner $100, water pump $100, plus cam and crank seals $30. Used engine with 150,000kms costs about $500-700. I found a shop that will install it for $600-700, plus $100 for fluids. This route will run me $1600 at most. The option above will run me about $200 doing the work myself...to be continued!
I have had multiple problems with the timing chain on the 204 Honda Accord 2.4L 4 cylinder. Mine jumped time at just under 100k miles and was replaced by the dealer at no cost. My daughter has the exact car and hers went at 135,000 miles and the engine died while running. I was told that it probably bent the valves and would need a new engine. I replaced the chain, guides and tensor for $250 and installed myself. Car runs great now. Back to my car, at 155,000 miles the check engine light with the P0341 code came back on. The dealer said this is unusual and would only happen if I didn't change the oil often enough. I change three times a year and probably put 10K a year on the car (Im retired). There is a good article from Honda Tunning magazine (link http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_1005_honda_k_series_tensioner/viewall.html) describing the chronic failing of the tensor in this Honda engine resulting in this failure. Very disappointed in Honda for not recalling the cars with this engine.
It's a known issue. I have a 2006 CRV EX and I had to replace the timing chain and tensioner. What happens is that oxidized oil builds up in a critical oil orifice in the tensioner and begins to close it off. The chain is lubricated by pressurized oil coming from this orifice. After a time, the chain starts to wear out, stretches, and you get the timing mismatch code or worse - catastrophic failures. I could have avoided this if I had USED GOOD SYNTH OIL AND CHANGED IT EVERY 5,000 miles. Also, these engines tend to burn oil, so make sure you keep the level up. At oil change time, I usually have already topped it off several times adding up to about 3 quarts! Now I've got the torque converter shudder...LOL!
I have a Honda CRV 2002 with an engine that needs replacing (due to streached cam belt, and bent valves etc) Does any one know of any problems of putting a 2006 engine in? Apparently they are the same.
The 2006 engine is identical to the 2002 engine. The only thing that is different is the "intake manifold", but the "exhaust manifold" is the same. Just keep the old engine for the "intake". FYI: The wiring harnesses from an automatic CRV to a standard transmission CRV in this era are different just so you are aware. If you are buying an engine with atleast 100,000 miles/kms on it, I highly recommend you change out the "timing chain tensioner" and the "thermostat". The tensioners are known to fail at about 135,000miles/kms. I would also make sure to use a quality oil (it doesn't have to be synethic) in your new engine and monitor oil levels--always keep it full and change every 4000-5000miles. If oil levels ever go below 1-litre, the tensioners have been known to fail; this is what happened to us. All Honda engines are known to use a little oil between fill-ups. If you're getting the engine from an auto-wrecker and you don't know the history of it, I would change the oil after the first 2000-3000miles just to flush it out and keep the engine clean, then resume to 4000-5000miles/kms oil changes. If the valves seem a little chatty I would also add in 1-cup of transmission oil into the motor oil to clean the engine/valves; this is a common trick of mechanics.
Thank you, have purchased the 2006 engine, now to freight it 2000KM!
2006 engine is installed, plus gear box. but gears wont go into reverse or shift up... any ideas?
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