how to change spark plugs and wires on 2006 ford freestar

brandy2630
0

Asked by brandy2630 Nov 03, 2011 at 02:03 PM about the 2006 Ford Freestar

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

how to change spark plugs and wires

5 Answers

papa
Not Active

underneith it.

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
carlford
45

it is a time consuming task. i did my 2004 freestar summer 2010. Obviously its the back ones that are difficult. You will have to take the plastic off in front of the windshield. Go to harbor frght, and get some long socket extension bars with the any angle joints and long spark plug socket. Buy the plugs at the ford dealer. Your not spending this much time to put cheap plugs in! And you need to have 125k on the old plugs ( they are not going to be worn out until 125k).

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
workingschmo
50

I changed the wires, plugs and module in about 3 hours and I took my time. You do not need special tools beyond a standard spark plug socket, some extensions (especially a short extension) and a ratchet. Much of the work is made easier by a lot of direct hand tightening and loosening and only using the ratchet for start and finish. The wires were actually the hardest part cos the clips are hard to get at and off. Make sure you take the air duct off (the part that has the cabin filter in it) as well. That makes 2 plugs really easy to get at. Also, if you can, actually climb into the engine on top of the manifold to save your back a bit. Once the cowl is removed, I found that the front plugs were actually tougher to remove than the back (there's less clearance in the front for the tools). So thankful for the internet for all of the useful tips. They saved me about $300!

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.
Diamondoza
30

my 2006 freestar in mid winter (driving in the wet snow all of a sudden started bucking and backfiring through the intake, i believe could have been the exhaust. I had to drop it down to 3 or 1 the transmission to keep it going. When hot it will idle fine and when cold started sometimes would idle and sometimes would surge and nearly die when idling and would not restart until 15 minutes later. Under light to medium throttle under 2000 rpm it misfired the worst. Code said misfire #3, 110,000miles, original plugs, wires, coil. I went to pep boys and $125 later had the parts that fixed it. you will need a drop light and a really long lasting flashlight (harbor freight LED) Unless you are mechanically talented I would buy the parts and take it to a private mechanic. this is not easy for a big guy or a novice, you need agility and long exxperience to know what you are looking at.. To get started, remove the wiper armss (15mm under the pop up shaft cover, I think), bend the wipers out away from the winshield to the serivce position, remove the hidden nut, use a pair of plyers to rock the assembly from the tapered shaft., Jack up the front wheels on 10" blocks, set the e- brake so it doesn't roll back and crush you- not good. you will need a short step ladder in the front to climb up on the core support to work the top side, the back cylinders and somewhat the front. remove the top black plastic cowl with a philips and pop it loose at the windshield (hidden clips, no tools required). Then remove the second black plastic cowl this an 8mm. no need to remove the bolts around the wiper motor. .unhook the wiper washer tube behind the silver A/C tank. I recommend removing the coil first to provide access from the top for the plugs. The coil is set with one 8mm on the left and 2 -8mm on the right. Try to leave the wires on at the coil so you can match up the lenghts becuase the new wires wont be marked. then remove the coil wire pigtail by squeezing.. The spark plug wires have separators to organize them and keep them off hot areas and the exhause manifolds and two of the separators set on post on the lower valve cover, just pull up with A small 90 degree pick with a handle on it (harbor freight sells a 3-4 assortment. which may help here and when moving the separators to the new wires. when the plug wire boots are free set the coil and all 6 attached wires on the bench and put the new wires on the new coil in a similar fashion and move each separtor to the new harness one at a time. Mark the boots 1-6 with an ink pen so you get them on the right plug (the old wires are numbered so use their location as a guide. Short wires on coil are 1-3-5 and log wires are 2- 4-6. remove the plugs and replace. The passenger rear plug can be worked from below through the wheel well opening. Gap the plugs 54- 56 thousands. The plugs you are bout to take out will likely be opened up too wide 80-90thousands from use. You will need a 3/8 rachet/3/8 universal joint/ 3 inch extention and skinny arms,. Reinstall the coil and wires assembly, being careful that wires are not close to exhaust manifolds. The coil pigtail from the computer goes under the rear spark plug wires and then into the coil. The cylinders are I believe 135 driver to pass rear bank, and 246 driver to pass front., start the engine before installing the cowl pieces to make sure you got it right. reinstall the cowl pieces and the wiper fluid hoses. pep boys wanted 350 labor and I did it in 4 hours. not easy getting the plugs wires off. FYI the plugs are a little tight coming out but go in without crossthreading. turning easily and coming to an abrupt halt when seated (5/8 plug socket). A big thanks to all that posted here, saved me a bunch at Christmas time. Cheers!

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
Paul Hale
0

Thank you all for your advice!

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