2010 Sonata shuts off or won't accelerate
I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata with a
4 cylinder engine, automatic
transmission, and approximately
130,000 miles. I bought the car new
five years ago.
It's been running great until today.
Yesterday the battery died and after
jumping it I let it idle for a couple
hours. Then on my way into work,
after about 25 minutes of driving, the
accelerator stopped working. It
didn't turn off, but the gas pedal
didn't work. It's like it was idling and
the car would only move like it was in
gear and my foot was off the brake.
Reverse worked, but not forward.
After I turned the car off and back on
it worked in drive, but the check
engine light was on. It was reading a
bunch of codes that the guy said
don't make sense because the car
wouldn't be working. I bought a new
battery and left the terminals
disconnected for about 20 minutes
before hooking up the new battery. It
initially worked well and the heck
engine light went off.
Later, however, I pulled up to a stop
sign and the car stalled. I restarted it
6 or 7 times with it stalling each time.
I was able to the the engine very
briefly each time before it stalled, but
couldn't get it in gear before it
stalled. Then I turned it off for about
10 seconds and restarted. At this
point I was able to get it in far and
finish my trip.
I may be way off base, but I can't
help but think it has something to do
with the battery dying and excessive
idle time.
Any thoughts?
Sound,s like alternator may be going out,charging half the time,when it does this,is when alternator may not be charging,
Would that cause the accelerator to not work while the car stays running?
Yes weak fire,it would still idle,but not have the power or more less spark,to make it go,the alternator has a regulator in it,it may be bad,working when it won,ts to,check the alternator,.
How do I check the alternator?
You may need to take it to a part,s store,and they will check it for you,but remeber this,it is doing it randomly,so it could show good,if it is not running bad,you need to have it there when it doe,s run bad,
All so let them run the scanner on the car,if there are in code,s in the computer,this will help diagnose the issue to.
Autozone,and advance and most parts store,s will do all of this for free.
They did run the codes and it came up with like 12 codes and it wouldn't let the guy reset it. He said the codes didn't make sense because if they were true then the car wouldn't run....haha...it kind of isn't.
If he could not clear the code,s with scanner,and that many code,s spit out at once,you may have a problem with the ECM/Brain.
Of course,i will add this,a weak alternator as i said to start with will cause havoc to the ecm/,,making it throw false code,s...im leaning more toward that alternator,at this point.
That doesn't sound good. How much is that to replace? Ballpark?
Ecm,s are not to cheap.but go have that alternator checked first,,,i dont, like out running bullet,s to set can,s up,hopefully,im right about that alternator.
Update - I had the computer scanned again after installing the new battery and it had only one code - P0106 (manifold absolute pressure sensor). Does that make any sense with everything else I've posted about this issue?
Yes that is your problem,it tell,s the ecm what the air mixture is,and the ecm tell,s it how much gas to input to the injector,s,this would explain your loss,of power,change the map sensor,
Thanks, TST. Is this something I can take on myself?
Yes it is not hard to replace,but take positive cable lose while installing it and make sure you pull the key out of the ignition,before you start the work or remove the cable.
Any idea of the cost of the fix. And would this prevent my car from starting the first time it died?
