OPEL CORSA

gdpcool78
135

Asked by gdpcool78 Mar 06, 2013 at 11:54 AM about the 2002 Opel Corsa

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have an Opel Corsa 1.6 litre Swing Estate Car Model Year 2002.
I have a peculiar problem. The car is a bit slow to crank up i.e no instant start at the switch
of the key. the engine idles at a 1000 rpm. when i start driving the car and shift to a higher
gear the car refuses to budge from 2000 rpm  even after flooring the pedal. there is no
smooth delivery of power sometimes in any of the gears. especially with the air conditioner
on. i have to reengage the clutch, push the engine rpm beyond 3000 rpm to 4000 rpm and
disengage the clutch to get more power and momentum. it becomes really hazardous
especially when trying to overtake. i have got the injectors cleaned and tested for leaks,  
the oil sump changed, the petrol pump and pipe changed and the v belt tension-er replaced
but too no avail. i even bought an obd bluetooth adapter to pinpoint the problem but too
no avail as my car is with an older version of the car data protocol. i have posted this
problem on most sites but have been of little help. someone suggested i replace the valves
which may have been damaged as one of the valves may be the reason for failure to
provide a full spark needed to get power. this problem sometimes completely disappears
when i start the car and race the engine beyond 5000 rpm in idle and then slot it in gear.
please HELP. I love this car and cannot see it be dumped in a car yard and broken down for
parts.
Regards - Ganesh

56 Answers

judge_roy
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the basic. connections to the battery must be perfect. Turn a hose on the battery washing positive and negative connections free of corrosion, then clean the connections with a wirebrush...and don't forget the other end that connects to the chassis ground...also connects to the motor block, yes this is important...to have solid connections.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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wish I could smell your exhaust, running rich or lean or smokey...? sounds like a vacuum leak with the high idle and lack of power. am instantly reminded of an evil emissions control device what takes the exhaust gas and pipes it right back into the intake...it's the EGR valve supposed to close up on acceleration and open up durning decelleration. the maf and map sensors are supposed to make this happen, but if it's jammed halfway, instructions to open are ignored. go to your smog guy, he will inspect your emissions to tell you what's faulty. This control system is turnin' against us....see if polishing up the connections doesn't fix ya, take it to a smog guy to release this stuck EGR valve. or take it off and clean it out yourself with some solvent.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.
DavidH25
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Bob has it right, I only want to add don't do a valve job. Yet. Find the problem before shelling out that kind on money

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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It's got to be something goofy and annoying. If you really love this car NOTHING will stop you from puttin' it right! You did not specify how many miles are on this one, but if you've been treatin' 'er right should be able to pull at least 150,000. My opel had a camshaft go bad and cam lifters get cupped after 80,000, so doing oil changes is paramount-

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
Best Answer
gdpcool78
135

thank you bob for the immense insight and helpful suggestions. i am working with my local mechanic to address the problem. in the mean while god bless you for showing the right diagnosis for my car.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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my pleasure. dealt with persistant ugly problems that turned out to be like...nothin' when it came down to it. We don't see too many Opels on our motorways in California...a rare treat.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
gdpcool78
135

I recently got in touch with my mechanic who did my free flow exhaust on the car. He says that the EGR valve can only be scanned and not serviced as it is a very delicate and tough job, cause it may result in complete failure of the valve which is not available easily. Is he speaking the truth or just trying to coax me into selling the vehicle. I am pretty much sure that bob is bang on onto the problem. Should i personally overlook the service and is there a particular solvent to get it de carbonized. I have been using the car as i post this and somehow this problem creeps up when the car is idling with the air-con on. Then even in the first gear it fails to provide a smooth delivery of the power. Will this problem if neglected result in the complete failure of the valve or far worse the entire engine. I failed to mention this before that this car was in a static condition for nearly a month with not even a kilometer run. And then suddenly one day the mechanic cranked up the engine ignition two to three times and floored the accelerator in the neutral. what should be the correct reading of the engine oil dip stick. In the morning before the engine is started or after a few kilometers run. Cause after nearlr 2000 kms the petrol pump attendant is saying that the engine needs an oil top up. With nearly 59000 kms on the odo and no engine overhaul would it be better to use a super synthetic motor oil like mobil 1. A Personal thanks to BOB. The saviour of mycar

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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...well gdpcool78, you're making me blush....but you are an industrious fellow who refuses to take NO for an answer...my hat's off to you...followed by a bow- Diggin and scrapin for what-in-a-hell this bugger looks like found this rather complicated goodie...there is a lot to play and spray on this one. It's easier if you have access to a high pressure air blast...pretty much have to have your own as the quarter operated ones are just weak...need a good five gallon tank of pressure!

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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I've heard horror stories about switching to synthetic oil mid-life...the complaint was that so slippery would slip right on past the gaskets and would pool up under the car and headcovers would leak, but cannot say from personal experience as I've never been able to afford the synthetic.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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Okay motor parts, shanghai OEM NO 5851029 EGR valve For OPEL CORSA B don't know if it's convenient for you, this particular model, alibaba.com is the supplier...they are worldwide.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
gdpcool78
135

Hello Bob, I have given my car to the authorized workshop of Chevrolet and have learnt that the car doesn't come with an EGR valve but with an IAC motor which along with the body throttle will be serviced. Hoping that the car comes back to its old glories. Thanks for all the suggestions and insights. Irrespective of any outcome, My Car and Myself owe it to you. Thank You

judge_roy
Not Active

apologies GDP, all around. We both wanted this to be the answer that we were looking for....will definiately state I have had only one OPEL when I was fourteen, my ma had it towed away after I finally got the camshaft in....drat, anyways there really aren't too many of those on the highways in northern California, so that's my excuse for not being as intimate with the equipment on your vehicle that I should have been, it's tough to be an expert an all makes and models foriegn and domestic old and new---but we try..thanks for your update---:)

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
gdpcool78
135

Hello Bob And A Heartiest Thank You. With your suggestion i got the IAC motor along with the Body throttle serviced and now the car runs smooth as silk. But I had another problem creep up. I drove my car rather in a hooligan style and after a few days sound started emitting from the timing belt and tension-er box next to the engine. I had to get the timing belt and tension-ers replaced and in the process had to also acquire a BOSCH alternator. When i told the service centre about my driving they said that the timing belts and tensioners need to be replaced after 60,000/- kms or 6 years which ever is first, Along with the above i got the IAC motor and body throttle serviced. All the problems just vanished. But then the engine check-light came on. The personal ran a car diagnostics program and updated the ECU software and found out this: 1) While idling the IAC motor returned 0 steps and the engine check- light stayed on. 2) While idling with the A/c on it returned a max of 10 Steps and the engine light went off after a few seconds. 3) While driving the car without a/c it returned 0 to max 3 steps and engine check light on for a moment and then off. 4) While driving with the a/c on it returned a max of 44 steps with quite a few high fluctuations of nearly 50% and engine check light off. According to the diagnostic personal he suggested that even after the service, either the IAC motor has gone weak or may be a problem with the wiring. He further assured that no major problems will arise with the car engine apart from erratic engine idling rpm and a tad bit of under power while accelerating. A new one will cost around Rs.14,000/- but he advised to drive the car for a week and then spend so much. Would love to hear from you. Came home and took my daughter and wife for a drive and what an experience. It felt like a brand new car. My wife who is not an expert or a person who knows A-Z of cars commented that the car did feel smooth, fun and new. On Behalf of my Daughter, Wife And Myself, A Quad-Zillion times a hearty and love filled thank you.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
DavidH25
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You're gonna make his head swell gdpcool he's gonna need a new hat

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
gdpcool78
135

I hope it swells with praise love and gratitude that i have for Bob.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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aww, you guys are sweet! all I wanted to do was help, kinda sorry I was unable to tell that you had a defective idle air control from here- but incidentally changed my name from bob_nueske (who's bacon I've come to love and respect) to the hated hangin' judge_roy_bean, because Walter Brennan is such a fine character actor, and no one can tell me what "rub-of-the-brush" is, a drink that eats bartops- So glad you were able to get this car back on it's wheels and drivin' proud, and your family as well. Thanks for being there for me to help, makes it all worthwhile to know what I'm doing isn't just to amuse myself~ Bob_Nueske aka judge_roy_bean...actually Javed N. Qureshi - pakistani, then Milwaukee for 20 years, then California (damn, life is GREAT here)....this place has everything~ if you're in California and wine country, this is where the wine country ends and the poverty begins, but there is wildlife hundreds of beautiful birds and a glorious view of the stars at night...come visit us, if you can gather the courage~

DavidH25
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Thinking fast, Cooper avoids hanging by Judge Bean claiming to know Lily Langtry. He even has a lock of hair from her, but not on him (wink wink). Judge Bean decides to suspend his sentence after making him promise to fetch the souvenir and return, sealing the bargain with a king-sized drink of the local whiskey “Rub o’ the Brush.”

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
DavidH25
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“Don’t spill any of that liquor, son, it eats right into the bar.”

judge_roy
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hey. You are well acquainted with this movie...David, you're such a hipster...if you only knew~ piqued my curiosity this rub of the brush and turns out it is a barkeepers drink made from all the leftover drinks...eeeeww~

gdpcool78
135

I would love to meet you guys when i,ll visit USA, which according to me is a long shot from a long shot. sometimes long shots pay off too, but thats another thing. Was wondering what You ( Bob ) would opine regarding the functioning of the IAC motor. Till then, when we actually , its just tons and tons of thanks to bob

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
Not Active

ain't really nothin' special, just an idle air control, in this case a small motor who's instructions are gathered from the sensors such as 02, maf, map and determines where to put the throttle at. It is the tiny computer that takes in all of this information and tells the injector to inject x-amount of fuel- if the IAC does not behave, it can cause racing motor-or-dead and dying motor that can only be controlled with the accelerator pedal---but what are the chances? The instruction to back off-man or give it the juice now lies in the capable hands of your ECU.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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I'm the judge now, judge_roy_beans like in the classic movie 'the westerner' and can no longer use Bob Nueske's name as I've too much respect for this supplier of delicious bacon >>www.nueskes.com<<< ...so you can stop callin' me bob and call me judge instead, nothing personal, just have too much respect for this man to borrow his name for a while. So in love with Lilly Langtree that He was willing to go back to Texas to get a lock of her hair....ultimately saw her, but was shot to death just before he got to meet her....kinda a romance..if ever?....so it's like that, if you wanted to switch you name to cool_cat you could actually!

judge_roy
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David H25 represents Southern California judge_roy represents Central California...we are Californians! the most mellow and easy to get along with types of people live here....must be the sunshine always...keepin' people smiley~

judge_roy
Not Active

You know, it just occurred to me that this OPEL isn't under the thumb of US air quality and does NOT have an egr.....doooh~

gdpcool78
135

Hello Judge Just wanted to tell you that after taking your advice my car is running smoothly and is also returning respectable fuel consumption figures. Thank You once again and My Family and I will always pray that the California Sun always shines on Your family and you. Good Luck and God Bless

DavidH25
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He be da man allright gdpcool

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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Thanks, cool cat- I'd welcome you and your family into Clearlake, CA--- one of the cheapest and neglected places in California-

judge_roy
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there are wineries nearby, LAKE county wines taste better than NAPA or SONOMA county wines...live within' driving distance to all these counties and have my opinion....though am not a professional wine taster...they're all here, and within' drunken reach of my house here-

DavidH25
Not Active

Napa, Sonoma, Medicino, Lake, Del Norte, Humbolt, Shasta, Siskiyou , Trinity, Tehama, some of the most beautiful places in the world

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
gdpcool78
135

Its been awhile since i got on this forum.a warm california sunshine hello to the judge and david. I would like to know whether the iac valve be cleaned with a specific cleaner like wd40 or carb cleaner. the idling issues are coming back to haunt me. and the original iac valve is costing me a bomb. the china makes are unpredictable. so was wondering if there is any solution and help in sight.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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After reading this, am suspecting the ECU may not be getting all the information it needs...is there a built-in-diagnostic that we can rely on? http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-idle-air-control-valve-works

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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they are relatively inexpensive...if always trouble, would buy a case of 'em~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
Not Active

maybe you need a fuel filter if bad boy is always gettin' choked~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
Not Active

use brake cleaner if you must, has volatiles (bad for your health)....boss got mad because he had to buy cases of it as we were using it for everything~ think I'm getting the picture now...the IAC is underpowered for the application, combined with foriegn material trying to enter the mix (from where we will solve) clobbers the mating parts of the IAC~....so where's the intruders coming from? the fuel should have been taken down to 20 micron by your filter (could replace that one too for funzies)...do not have an EGR?...or do you, this would explain evil things (combustion gasses not fully combusted) entering the fold~ need to study your system to see how bad things are getting in a clobberin; up the IAC~~(your references to god remind me of a faith healer trying to mend a television set)~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
gdpcool78
135

GETTING A BRAND NEW IAC ON EBAY FOR APPROX 30 US DOLLARS

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judge_roy
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btw, WD-40 is a water displacer....perfect for rescuing a wet ignition, but not a good solvent and not a good lubricant either...perfect for isolating high-voltage components tho~

judge_roy
Not Active

after re-reading your problem have determined that the throttle position sensor is worn and needs replacing...not necessarily the IAC (idle control)...this one is Throttle Position which would explain all your troubles...seen it on other cars where the gas pedal needs to be punched all the way down and still just ain't right...so before you get the IAC, get one of these TPS (throttle position sensor) the search came back with this but is a US based search---go to your parts counter and ask for a new TPS~ swear to god this will fix your car.~and am more of a zen buddhist then a guy who can toss around god like that~

judge_roy
Not Active

you know Ganesh, I'm actually a half-Pakistan brought to the US at the age of three months~ been told that pakistanis are brilliant with machines and am inclined to agree~ gramps ran an ice factory before there was refrigeration---used a FORD 351 engine running full time...ammonia was the refrigerant...very dangerous~ my name is actually Javed Nawaz Qureshi----a name of distinction...but not in the US...been spat upon as the carmel colored boy~escaped to California...Life is beautiful here--

judge_roy
Not Active

get a TPS.

judge_roy
Not Active

going to have to slap my own face for not seeing this RIGHT AWAY...ashamed for accepting credit for something that did not work...this one WILL work...bet you a chicken on it~

judge_roy
Not Active

used to have a cable for the throttle...seldom failed...now we've got sensors to tell the computer where your foot is...but they do not have the wear-with-all to last but ten years (if a contact resolver)...but nowadays all have gone to an optical device that cannot wear out (one might think)~ they haven't let us have a potentiometer for years --- where's my damned volume control....beepbeepbeep on the select, volume, enter----what a disgrace, I believe that electronics have de- volved reliability and a simple reliable system still wins the day...only can pile on so much scrapple with their overpaid non-experienced college kids who do not understand the basic principles and design things for looks (like the Italians do) rather than function...I'd cite a few design examples but would bore you~

judge_roy
Not Active

ovals are bad...used to be expensive....drilling into a curve is bad...used to be a big no-no as it threw off the drill...concentrating forces to a tiny area that will crack and fail is a no-no, always use gussets to distribute the forces...these kids...I tell ya~

gdpcool78
135

The personal ran a car diagnostics program and updated the ECU software and found out this: 1) While idling the IAC motor returned 0 steps and the engine check- light stayed on. 2) While idling with the A/c on it returned a max of 10 Steps and the engine light went off after a few seconds. 3) While driving the car without a/c it returned 0 to max 3 steps and engine check light on for a moment and then off. 4) While driving with the a/c on it returned a max of 44 steps with quite a few high fluctuations of nearly 50% and engine check light off. According to the diagnostic personal he suggested that even after the service, either the IAC motor has gone weak or may be a problem with the wiring. I think my accelarator pedal is cable type. I am getting an original new iac valve for opel and a tps sensor of hyundai getz 1.6 will they work together or simply fail

gdpcool78
135

This problem of mine seems to creep up at the most vulnerable times. I got an IAC valve but the same got stuck and the car started idling at 2000 to 3000 rpm. Fitted the old iac valve and the rpms have slowed down, but still idling at a 1000 rpm instead of 700 rpm. And the car is just reluctant to give me an instant boost at low rpm in a lower gear with the a/c on. The old devilish problem is back. And i am running out of patience. During the earlier time my car was returning 11 kmpl and now its dipped to 6 kmpl. Its disheartening and am disappointed in myself that even after your invaluable help i am failing miserably.

gdpcool78
135

And the car has a cable actuated accelerator and not a TPS. So the culprit is the IAC Valve. Or I am wrong again.

gdpcool78
135

Just learnt that the tps is with the throttle body

judge_roy
Not Active

Ganesh, there has to be a way for the ECU to know where your foot is...it's been called an accelerator position sensor, or a throttle position sensor...will try to put a claw on this~

judge_roy
Not Active

http://www.ebay.com/itm/THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR- POTENTIOMETER-OPEL-ASTRA-VECTRA-ASCONA-CORSA-17106682- /330815019596? pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d061c9a4c

judge_roy
Not Active

okay thats a Bristish sight and this replacement part is for the Corsa mkII-- -not sure if it will apply....your local parts house should have the one that fits your car~

gdpcool78
135

my mechanic has found out that the throttle bodies butterfly and maybe one of its sensors have been damaged.His advice is to replace it with an original which in india is not readily available and the same will have to be sourced from germany which will cost me a bomb and will have to wait for a month. the chinese ones have no guarantees and have been known to fail often. IAC valve failed so i'll take his word. My hunch is that can i replace it with the body throttle of a hyundai verna 1.6 litre petrol engine along with its sensors and IAC valve or go in for one from chevrolet optra

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
Not Active

okay Ganesh, still you can find this device which tells the computer where your foot is...yes it's on the throttle body...yes it's a cable operated device...No, I do not think the idle air control is the culprit...merely a series of passages that switch off and on~ gotta be the device that tells your computer where you foot is....the TPS~....you definitely have one....and yes it's the thing~

judge_roy
Not Active

okay you know where the "butterfly choke" is...is on the same axis, far side of the cable...you can't miss it~...or at least your mechanic should know what this is~....how else is the computer to know how much the gas pedal has been pressed...that's your culprit...right there~

gdpcool78
135

hey judge roy, its been quite a while i got back on this forum. i would just like to say that the culprit was a blue and white colored rust on the bottom of the ecu/ecm mother board. just a little bit of light scrapping with a twig mad a whole lot of difference and now i will be cleaning it with isoprophlyl. not to forget that i spend 100$ for a new boddy throttle with sensors and all. hope to u here from u soon.p.s i m looking for an owners manual in pdf format

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
judge_roy
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terrific news Ganesh....thanks for coming back to share that~ god bless~

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
gdpcool78
135

could any one please tell me what is the ideal idle engine rpm for an opel corsa 1.6 mine idles at 1000 rpm, bad for economy especially in bumper to bumper traffic and air conditioner working. can n e one help to rectify the same

sachinj811
0

hi, i also own opel corsa swing 1.6gsi model of 2003. Of late i also started facing problem of fluctuating RPM though i first showed it to GM service center since in India it is taken over by GM. however the part itself is not available in Mumbai. Hence I ordered one from amazon which was sent to me through China and it resulted to be non suitable for my car and seems to be faulty. I tried similar product from local dealer but by using that it affected my ignition coil and eventually i had to replace with new ignition coil. An ideal RPM is 900 with ignition on and in a/c it is supposed to be between 900- 1000 RPM. Since I am running with faulty IAC valve the RPM ranges between 1200 to 1800 which results in harder brakes than normal push and car accelerates on its own. But when the engine light is on the RPM remain stable. I just need to know from where can I get a genuine IAC sensor for my car but not from China. The one available that is (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stepper-Motor-IAC-Opel-Astra-Corsa-Nova-Vectra-Tigra-Zafira-repl-C95166-/131257870454?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8f942876) but I am unsure if this will fit however I trust German supplier and manufacturing. Kindly suggest.

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